"Discovered a new method for weathering" Topic

I discovered a new weathering method that I really like. I use AK Interactive's Pigments. I used their Dark Earth color. It is a very fine powder that gives an outstanding job of weathering, "I" think. I dip my number 12 wide flat synthetic brush into the pigment, lightly dust it off back into the bottle then start with the tracks (in this case, the wheels of the trucks) then "dust" (like I would be dry brushing) the entire vehicle. If I get too much in one area, I just spread it around. Less is more. I apply it over the dried painted vehicle. I do not hit it with a matt spray because I like the "looks" of the flat, weathered finish. So far. I have not experienced any of this pigment coming off on my fingers from handling the model. These 1/'144th scale vehicles are 3D prints from Shapeways. While not inexpensive (I need a LOT!) I did receive them really fast.
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Tom,

I've been using the dry pigments on minis from 3mm, 12s, to 20s with good and fast results.

Here's a thread on how to use it to create camouflage patterns -

TMP link

(on 1/144 WTM Tigers)

Great for 15mm-ish also

There's lots more to discover too.

Great technique!

Thanks, Fly By and Frederick!

Been a long time since I tried that. Funny how you find a technique you like, then somehow it fades away on you.

It's really like dry airbrushing, so without the emulsion….and the final clear-overspray adds that emulsion, only when you like the achieved results…..otherwise you just wash off the dry pigments and start over.

Tom, another technique with pigments is taking advantage of this removal property…..see the tank tracks above, they were brushed with a brown pigment overall (of course the dust pretty much covered the whole track surface to get the pigment down where I wanted it to be…..between the links). -

The next step, lightly moisten a flat section of paper towel (cut or fold sections to work in the areas needed), and then draw it across the top surface of the track……that'll remove the brown pigment, revealing the original paint, but leaves the pigment that's down in the recesses, where it's wanted.

This 'removal' step can work for all sorts of detailed areas – think sooty black engines grates – apply the black pigment on those engine decks, around grills, etc., then with that moistened paper towel, swipe it across the black pigment, to remove the pigment from off the top detailing, leaving the dark pigment only down in the cracks.

Another tip – think of using black pigment for creating shadowing effect on models – I use it on 'undercuts', like a rounded turret side where the turret recesses inward along its bottom half – this "shading" technique can accentuate the 3D effect of the modelling on small wargame miniatures – where they normally don't get enough light to create anything close to light-contrasting (shadows).

I use the same technique on model buildings – under roof eaves, in the corners of walls – all to create greater 3D shadowing effect.

Again, if you don't like the initial look/results – wash it off and try again, or move along. ;)

Back to camo techniques, here's some on my 20mm minis -

Don't get me started on snow effetcs. :)))

Thanks, Fly-By. Those 20mm jobs look excellent. Airbrushing can be such a pain; especially cleaning it. Indeed, using pigments is not only easier but if you mess up, just wipe it away and start over again, like you say.

For me, the bottom line is excellent results for very little time and effort. I used to use shaved pastel chalks but I feel the AK products grain is finer and more consistent. I don't apply any sort of overcoating as I like the flat finish it gives too much. Haven't experienced any "rubbed off" effects on my fingers after handling a finished piece like I did with the shaved pastel chalks using these AK pigments. Sounds like an ad but really passing along my experiences.

Snow: I think I "snow" what you mean!

:)))

We've seen the glossy game mags over many years touting this way to paint "easy figure faces", or how to use [10] paint hues to achieve that quick layer-painting affect.

BS!

There's approachable ways that do work, for the least labor input. Maybe not for those optimal closeup-shots, but when I've got dozens of tanks (of one type, of many units to complete for a game), it's about efficiency…….as you said….

"For me, the bottom line is excellent results for very little time and effort."

Btw, I'm on this board as a gamer, not as a pro-painter – so we're givin' it away for free.

As remarked in another thread – going out the way I came into this hobby.

Thanks Gents…..interesting technique. FlyXWire…thanks for the link on the cammo options. (Also as a gamer I don't have the time or patience to follow the pro painting/shading methods)

Great to hear this Antioch!

I expect Tom, Editor Bill, and me are hoping you'll get some rewarding results.

You can dust on the dry pigments with various brushes, and apply it lightly for maximum feathering, or drag and press with more pressure to make the pigment more opaque appearing.

"Smearing" is even possible, and sometimes a certain brand of pigment will seem more like a greasy graphite, and almost create a stain effect.

If you're into military figures too, well, pigments can be used to mud legs and butts, or create those shadows under back packs.

You can use pigments on models for [m]any periods -

Even for dusting on DUST models.

You can 'layer' successive applications of pigments too – apply>clear spray>evaluate – apply again>clear spray, and if you like the intensity of the combined layers, hold pat, and move on to the next pressing project (get some gaming in between, so you can reinforce the reason for the craftiness too).

The SSU KV-47B above had a few layers applied to the lower legs and feet where the snow would have been kicked up as it charged forward into battle.

When applying, you might want to wear gloves if you don't want to get too much of the dust on you. :)))