"How to Dip Wargames Factory Plastics & Old Glory Figures" Topic

That's pretty much my process, but I wanted to mention that you want to use Minwax Polyshades (as opposed to their stain). It may also be a good idea to use primer intended for use with plastic.
Bob

Nice Project. It's pretty much what I do too.

I agree about the Polyshades, -though I notice you didn't specify, so maybe that's what you used- though I use it un-thinned. Thick unthinned Polyurethane in polyshades is what makes it flow slower and gives some of the better shading effects. It does mean that you have to dab some off with your brush or paper towels, but the effects are worth it. Army Painter Quickshade is also a stain plus poly product, essentially a high-priced copy of minwax polyshades.

No worries about the primer though. I use Krylon sprays and other brands of spray paint right on plastic as primer/basecoat all the time, both those with and without the "Fusion" formulation for plastic. They all bond really well with polystyrene plastics.

The only time I have to make sure I am using plastic specific sprays is when I'm dealing with softer plastics like Polyethylene as they really need a plastic specific spray paint. Krylon Camoflage sprays are good for this and all say "Made with Fusion Technology" somewhere on the can.

I've wondered if hanging the figues upside-down while they dry would make the dip pool under the recesses better (a better looking shading)….?

I've never dared to just slap the stuff on and call it a day, I always have to go back and wick off excess dip. Can't help myself.

I've wondered if hanging the figues upside-down while they dry would make the dip pool under the recesses better (a better looking shading)….?

Might give you shadows in the wrong places…

This is pretty much how I do it as well. Except I brush on the Minwax poly shades, not sure how it'sapplied in this article. Are they actually dipped and that's why you need the rubber gloves?

I went to the Minwax website that was given, and I saw a reference to a spray on version of the Minwax poly shades. Has anybody tried using this?

The Polyshades will penetrate the wax paper… Parchment Paper is much more effective as the Polyshades won't damage/soak through; in fact, it will peel right off from it, once cured. Parchment Paper is more expensive, but it works much better with The Dip.

I paint, and Dip, Army Men figures, made of the soft plastic. It works superbly. I also take full advantage of the plastic's color, only painting the parts that differ from the plastic's color. For tan soldiers, I only paint the bits that are not tan; I also dab on different shades of brown with the tip of a toothpick, to create camouflage. The Dip seals in the paint very well, along with the auto-magic shading. I do the same with green figures: paint the non-green bits, directly on the plastic, with acrylic craft paints, then Dip. Fast and easy, as well as effective.

I'd also recommend a clear matte coat to dull the shine, even if you use Tudor Satin -- the Satin is still quite shiny. After the matte clear coat, they look fantastic at arm's length. The only thing to do after that, is to give them a decent base. Cheers!

Feeling amateurish. Still using floor wax…..

I experimented with the Vallejo dips. Too too dark and patchy. I have gone back to my old formula of 50/50 matt varnish and water, shaded with drops of ink until I get the shade I want. Apply with brush and then apply a second coat of varnish to protect. I think I can use the remains of the stain to replace the ink, but in that case I guess I have 40 years supply :)
Graham

Sgt. Slag,
Dipping army men. Brilliant! Good point about the matte varnish. I forgot to mention that. It's probably the most glaring omission from the piece. Unless you for some reason want shiny figures (geiger'ish aliens for example) you really have to follow the dipping with matte coat of some sort.

I'm going to toot my own horn and offer up a much more complete guide to brush-dipping here:
link

This is a good overview of the simple way to do it :)

egoboy….me too

I have never tried dipping before, which is just one more reason why I get discouraged at the prospect of hundreds or even merely dozens of figures to be painted.

Speaking as an utter naïf: Is the Minwax/mineral spirit _brushed_ on to the figure and the figure et to dry, or is the box actually filled with the fluid and the figure set in it, submerged? No, I'm not joking, I am really THAT ignorant of the process!

Also, while Minwax is easy enough to ask for, where does one get "mineral spirits" in this day and age?

Thanks for not laughing too hard, and kind answers appreciated.

Dasher

Speaking as an utter naïf: Is the Minwax/mineral spirit _brushed_ on to the figure and the figure et to dry, or is the box actually filled with the fluid and the figure set in it, submerged? No, I'm not joking, I am really THAT ignorant of the process!

Yes and No. Some people brush it on while other do a traditional dip. You dont leave the figures submerged. You submerge the figure in the can then pull it out and shake/brush the excess off. You leave them somewhere outside smelling range to dry.

Also, while Minwax is easy enough to ask for, where does one get "mineral spirits" in this day and age?

I don't even use it. I just brush on pure Army Painter Dip and it works just fine w/o mineral spirits. I have seen it at my local Michaels though.

I use the Minwax polyshades straight out of the can, no mineral spirits needed. I also brush it on instead of dipping. Then I paint on a matt varnish after the Minwax dries.

I use miniwax as well, and use it strait, but brush it.

More recently I have gone back to using GW washes over dipping and putting a varnish seal over the wash.

But The dip is an amazing way to get good looking figures.

I am the guy who invented this process about twenty years ago. Here is how this happened: Curt Wright and myself were looking at some Mike's Models ACW figures that were glossy and highly shaded. Kurt remarked that you could probably get the same effect with polyurethane wood stain. I went out and purchased some of the "Tudor Gold" glossy stain from Minwax, and started dipping old figures and shaking off the excess. It worked great. I originally intended this as a way of improving very poorly painted figures and bringing together cheaply pained figure from numerous sources. It was never intended for use on well-painted figures.
Danny Weitz

For years I have just used a watered down "darknight blue " crafts paint -- Then-- (this is the secret) -- Right after application I quickly blow dry with a hair dryer forcing and keeping the stain in the cracks and crevices of the figure where I wanted it.
Regards
Russ Dunaway

It was never intended for use on well-painted figures.

Anything I attempt is poorly painted; I know most folk are just looking for something quick for vast quantities, but I'd be happy with a few that don't make me ill.

Doug

I found that MinWax's acrylic stains work VERY well, and you don't have any nasty fumes, etc. I cut it about 2:1 stain to water and apply it with a brush.

FWIW, I just finished a bunch of WF Ceasarian Romans. Now, I like the Army Painter system, and use their paints, everything, in fact EXCEPT their cans of stains.

I spray the romans with chainmail silver after gluing together everything except the shield. Then I paint in all the flesh, any bronze/brass/etc, the tunics and straps and set aside to dry. Meanwhile I detach and trim all the shields and place them face down on several strips of double-side tape mounted to foamcore. I spray the backs with a rust color primer, the $1 USD/can auto primer from WalMart. When dry, I flip them all over and spray the front whatever base color I plan on using for them.

By this time, the minis are all dry enough to wash with the thinned MinWay Acrylic Stain. These get set aside to dry, and then I finish up the shields. Afterward, the shields get glued onto the minis and a spray coat of clear matte applied overall.

I mostly use the MinWax English Oak acrylic stain.

link

I want to encourage anyone who is hesitant to try any of the variations of the process. Like Danny, I was confronted with a bunch of crummy-looking figures and needed an easy fix.
The only clarification I will offer is to avoid doing it is a hot space. My first try was on a very hot summer day (over 100f) and the stain dried too quickly. My second try was after the weather had cooled and it worked just great. It was a forehead-slapping result! I hit them with some matte spray and was done.
You must try this process – it is simply too good and the results are so consistent.
Pete

All I can add to this good advice is that if you find yourself in a hot situation, like my garage during the summer, it will slow things down and get a slower cure if you chill your stain. The wife thought I'd lost my mind when she found Minwax in the fridge, and was sure after I explained the reason!

I have to ask why the black shading before painting?

wmyers: it brings out the details in the figure, making it super easy to see where things start, and stop, which makes it easier to paint in the features. Cheers!

Minwax makes a water-based formula (contains Ether -- stay away from open flames, when using) which has very little odor. The oil/spirit based formulas have a strong odor which lasts for years. The water-based formulas have almost no odor, when dry. The water-based formulas also dry within an hour, where the solvent-based formulas can take days to dry, depending upon temperature and humidity conditions.

Any dark color will work: Tudor (black) is the most commonly recommended color to use, but I prefer Royal Walnut, myself. Experimentation may be necessary, but I lean into the darkest colors for the best effects. Tudor (black) is too dark for me, but it does work well enough, overall.

The Dip's effects are stunning. Here is an example, showing the same figure, with simple block painting, and freshly brushed on Royal Walnut urethane-stain. Here is a lineup of the Cyclops figure set, matted, ready for battle.

Simple block painting, followed by The Dip Technique, is one of the fastest painting methods: I average 10 minutes, per figure, using assembly line painting techniques, followed brushing on The Dip, and a matte clear coat.

The fastest technique I've heard of, is using Army Painter Speedpaints: average of two minutes per figure, or five times faster than my approach! The Speedpaints also produce better results than The Dip! Check out Wyloch's Speedpaints video, and the comments section, where I asked him to compare Army Painter Speedpaints to The Dip Technique… Cheers!