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Da Pinkos from HLBS


Private Ivan #623
Product #
PSP02
Manufacturer
Suggested Retail Price
£3.00 GBP

Private Vlad #22
Product #
PSP03
Manufacturer
Suggested Retail Price
£3.00 GBP

Private Yuri #1256
Product #
PSP04
Manufacturer
Suggested Retail Price
£3.00 GBP


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ScottWashburn Sponsoring Member of TMP writes:

Yes, clearly inspired by Vaughn Bode's Junkwaffle. Great stuff!


Revision Log
17 May 2010page first published

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IGWARG Fezian writes:

The figures that were sent to me were in individual boxes that are similar to Perry Miniatures boxes. I liked the figures right away. Almost no flash, very cleanly cast. Figures are 50mm tall, from the bottom of the base to the top of the helmet, and 1-to-1 scale as claimed by the manufacturer.

I superglued the figures to 1-inch/25mm round metal washers, and undercoated using simple black acrylic paint and a large brush.

A lot has been said on this forum about undercoating with gesso, but I find that it makes no difference for the way undercoat stays on a figure, and it's much harder to achieve nice and smooth finish with gesso.
Figures unpainted (left) and primed

After the black undercoat was completely dry (best to leave it overnight), I started to paint the figures. Working from the inside out, I started with flesh and used the ordinary Caucasian flesh colors I always use. With a 0 round oxhair brush, I basecoated and highlighted faces and hands.

Flesh painted

Next, I painted the uniform based on Soviet WWII colors. Using the same 0 round oxhair brush, I painted and highlighted with appropriate colors.

I don't care about precise names of the colors and brand names. Most of the colors in my bottles are not what their labels say anymore. I have a large variety of greens, browns, reds, etc. - most of them mixed right in the bottle, so I don't waste time mixing the paints when I paint. I just choose colors that look right for the job.
Painting uniforms

I painted helmets and a hat next, again using the same brush. This time I drybrushed lighter colors instead of highlighting. Cheap, natural-hair brushes are very versatile and tough.

Painting headgear

Details like red stars, canvas bags, boots, wooden gun stocks, and belts were painted next. I used two colors for each item. A smaller, pointy brush was used this time. An even smaller brush was used for the eyes. Black metal was neatened up on submachineguns with black paint, and highlighted with a simple #2, everyday use pencil.

Painting the details
Painted used for detailing

With figures almost ready, I painted the edges of the bases brown. When that was dry, I spread some watered-down white glue on the base with an old brush, and dipped the figures in a container with real dirt and some model-railroad ballast. It dried pretty fast under a 100-watt light bulb that I use for painting. After that, I spread that glue again here and there, and this time dipped the figures into a container that has a mix of various flocks and static grasses.

The figures were then basically ready. After spraying them with Krylon gloss varnish, followed by Krylon matt varnish, they are ready for gaming!

Da Pinkos

For more information about the Pond Scum range of figures, go here.