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Boris the Fighter

Boris Mingla
Product #
Suggested Retail Price
$3.99 USD

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unknown member writes:

If they are child halflings, then he must be one of the good guys. The only good halfling is a dead halfling! :0

Love the paint job by the way, and I think the figure looks fun.

Revision Log
18 October 2007page first published

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unknown member of Meg's Miniatures writes:

The Miniature

Boris Mingla

This is a Reaper mini from their Dark Heaven Legends line, Boris Mingla (DHL 02386). It's a fun mini to paint, and I decided to paint him up as an evil/Undead fighter guy.


I used a variety of paints on this model to get just the right colors.





  • Elmer's White Glue
  • Pumice Paste
  • Static Grass (can find at any local game store or online)


  • Top to a primer can
  • Silly Putty (to affix the mini to the primer can top, so you don't handle the mini during painting)
  • X-acto knife
  • Flat golden taklon brush
  • superglue
  • toothbrush
  • dish soap

Prep Work

There wasn't much in the way of prepwork to do on this mini. He had a couple of mold lines that I filed off. When I was done filing the mini down, I soaked him in some soapy water and scrubbed him clean with a toothbrush. I let him dry overnight, and then glued him to his base.

I then applied a layer of pumice paste to the base, and let the mini dry overnight. Pumice paste dries slowly, so allow it to dry for at least 3 hours; overnight if it's a thick layer. Once he was dry, I sprayed him with Tamiya White Primer. And now we're ready to go!

Methods to the Madness!

As I said above, I was inspired to make him look evil/Undead-ish. I decided to use a dark, dingy color for the skin that would look sickly and unhealthy. Since he's heavily armored, I decided to alternate gold and silver metallics for the armor just to give him some color. (If I had done all of his armor in silver, he would have looked a little too drab.)


I used layering on this mini for the most part. Once I had the basecoat colors on the model, I worked on highlighting them by layering. I did not drybrush any area on the model. Layering is executed to create shadows and highlights to create depth to the miniature itself. In order to layer colors, you need to allow your basecoat to dry well - about a half an hour. Then take your highlight colors and thin them down with a few drops of water. You want the color to be thick enough to leave a noticeable mark on the basecoat color, but you don't want it to be a stark, thick contrast. You will probably have to add multiple layers to get highlights and shadows just right.

Paint Recipes


RMS Bone Shadow
Highlight 1:
RMS Aged Bone
Highlight 2:
RMS Polished Bone

Silver Metallics

RMS Shadowed Steel
Highlight 1:
RMS Honed Steel
Highlight 2:
RMS Polished Silver

Gold Metallics

Renaissance Ink Gold; glazed in RMS brown liner for some shadows.


RMS Stone Grey
RMS Pure White; thinned out and applied several layers to different areas to concentrate the white pigments where the highest highlight should be (around the crown and any hair that is upraised).

Axe Handle

RMS Muddy Brown
Highlight 1:
2 RMS Muddy Brown + 1 RMS Buckskin Pale
Highlight 2:
RMS Muddy Brown + RMS Buckskin Pale


RMS Adamantium Black


RMS Stained Ivory
Highlight 1:
RMS Yellowed Bone
Highlight 2:
RMS Creamy Ivory

Severed Head

RMS Tanned Shadow
Highlight 1:
RMS Tanned Skin
Highlight 2:
RMS Tanned Highlight
RMS Bloody Red
Boris Mingla - work in progress #1
Boris Mingla - work in progress #2
Boris Mingla - work in progress #3


After painting the mini, I started on the base. I painted the pumice paste with RPP Volcano Brown, and let it dry before adding flecks of RPP Bright Gold to it. I then glued on some static grass and leaves with Elmer's Glue. As a finishing touch, I painted on some "puddles" of blood from the severed head.

Boris Mingla (front)
Boris Mingla (back)

Ta da! Now you have an evil fighter-looking guy!