Help support TMP


Finishing the Beowolf


Beowolf
Product #
20-937
Manufacturer
Suggested Retail Price
$7.95 USD


Back to PAINTING THE BEOWOLF

Back to Workbench


Spacelord writes:

Casting these things over the past six years has left me a little jaded with the whole mech thing, but these LPS mechs look great, good job all round!


Revision Log
15 March 2006page first published

Areas of Interest

Science Fiction

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Link


Top-Rated Ruleset

A Fistful of Kung Fu


Rating: gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star 


Featured Showcase Article

Bob Olley's Scrunts

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian rediscovers his Scrunts.


Featured Workbench Article

Anyone Seen My Puck?

Lonewolf dcc Fezian returns to show us how he painted Hasslefree's Jess zombie-fighter.


Featured Book Review


Featured Movie Review


2,444 hits since 15 Mar 2006
©1994-2024 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

B1BFlyer writes:

I applied the decals, after scraping and scratching a few of them to make them look weathered and chipped once applied. I wanted them on now, to help get rid of any glare and the clean look that decals often have if you wait until the end of the paintjob to apply them. I use Solvaset on all my decals and swear by its results. A thinned ink wash (as described before) was applied over the decals, after they were set and sealed with a matte coat. This helps with the appearance of wear.

Now it's time to add the GW Boltgun Metal to the edges and panels. This was time consuming since I didn't want to just drybrush it on and hope for the best. I thinned the paint down, and used a 5/0 brush to try and hit most of the edges that were left from the blue-and-white coverage earlier.

Decals added

Now I mixed a few drops of GW Brown Ink with a small drop of black paint and a few drops of water. This has been very effective for me when I want to make grease and fluid leaks on my minis. As it dries on your palette, it will get more and more concentrated - so keep that in mind as you're working, so you don't end up with something too dark where you don't want it.

I also started adding sand to the base. I used superglue to set the sand, and then let it dry completely.

I also started jewelling the laser barrels and lights on the tank. There are tons of tutorials on how to jewel, and I'm not the person to give one here (given my lack of experience and inconsistent results).

Oil leaks added

I made sure the base was dry, and then applied a thinned coat of GW Scorched Brown, mixed with some thinned black ink while it was still wet on the base. This makes it easier to get different shades of ground and dirt, if you wish that effect. Once dried, I used Neutral Grey to drybrush the highlights on the rocks near the feet.

Base painted

Here, I started to apply my ground cover and flocking. I start with the small stuff first, then add the bigger clumps at the end. I wanted the vehicle to look like it had made some tracks in the dirt before it was stomped down, so I used some more Scorched Brown (with some Black added) to give an appearance of tire ruts.

Once this had all dried, I applied two coats of GW Matte Sealer, and let them dry before going back to my jeweled areas and cockpit glass. I used GW Varnish, and let each coat dry completely before the next. Two or three coats usually gives a nice depth and gloss.

Finished base

Well, there you have it - all done. I wanted to give the appearance of a mech that was built and repaired many times over. There are some panels and colors that are definitely older and more worn than others. I figured this mech pilot was tired of having his home planet raided by pirates, and decided to return the gesture by stomping on them for once.

Thanks for your time!

See the Finished Pictures