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Coloring the Brigand


Brigand
Product #
20-232
Manufacturer
Suggested Retail Price
$5.95 USD


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Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian writes:

…the end effect is a rubbled, desolate field…

It works surprisingly well. I've heard that you might want to bake natural materials before using them, to avoid little surprises later.


Revision Log
14 March 2006page first published

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SavageCoyote writes:

Now, for the color. There are several pirate bands operating in the BattleTech Universe, but I decided to go with something a little less official. I chose Games Workshop's Scab Red for the base color and drybrushed it on, exactly the same way as I did the Ghostly Grey.

Primary color drybrushed on

Next, I went ahead and mapped out the areas that would be just paint primer - our pirate doesn't have the funds to get new paint, so there are areas where he's had to just put down primer. To do this, I used a 0 fine brush, and painted those areas in with Games Workshop's Codex Grey. I then took the Testors Black again, and added some areas where grease and oil had leaked out (or blown out, like the battle-damaged left hip area!).

Bare primer and oil stains added

Well, I'll have to trick you guys, cause I got carried away and got to painting, so the photo that showed the updated paint job was never taken! In a nutshell, I took the same 0 fine brush and painted in every panel of the 'Mech that would be Scab Red that color, so as to bring the color out and solidify it. This makes the miniature more vibrant and takes away the dark twinge to it. From there, I began the process of highlighting the colors.

For the Scab Red, I mixed two parts Scab Red to what amounted to a half-part Games Workshop Bleached Bone, and then highlighted the outside of the panels. The next layer was two parts Scab Red to one part Bleached Bone, and the final layer added in another part Bleached Bone, and a part Games Workshop Skull White. Each successive pass on the outer edges of the panels is smaller, to accomplish a blended effect on the miniature.

For the Codex Grey, I simply added small amounts of Skull White to the Codex Grey, making three layers.

Whew, I did A lot in this step! The final thing I did before snapping the next picture was to take my .005 Micron archival-ink pen and fill in all of the details on the 'mech. Panel lines, edges, etc., were drawn in to help define them.

Highlighted Brigand

Here is where we go back and touch up the oil spots with Testors Black, and then paint the big stick. It's based in Games Workshop Scorched Brown, then drybrushed with Games Workshop Bestial Brown. I then mixed in small amounts of Bleached Bone to the Bestial Brown to highlight it.

The final part of this stage was adding Games Workshop Chainmail to various areas of the 'Mech to simulate scratches, nicks and bumps where paint (both primer and primary) has been knocked off. After that dried, I took my pen back out and redefined the areas. It's now when I did the bullet holes running from the center of the 'Mech up to the left shoulder. A base of Codex Grey, then an inner of Chainmail, followed by the pen for the center holes created them.

Damage added

Two things have happened now. First, I painted the cockpit (the small green area) using a jewelling technique. I mixed Games Workshop Snot Green with Testors Flat Black and used that as my base, then added subsequent amounts of Snot Green until I had pure green. (Note: With a cockpit this small, it doesn't take too long to do this.) I then took pure Snot Green, and added Skull White till I had a nearly white mix, applying the final dabs to round off the cockpit. I was using the same 0 fine brush I always use for that, as well.

Next, we have the base. I mixed up some five-minute auto epoxy and filled in the base. This is the kind of epoxy that comes in twin tubes that must be mixed first before using. After about ten minutes of drying (those manufacturers lie!), I was able to start on the next phase of the base. I added in another toothpick for the heck of it. It's something to start contemplating for the future.

Filling in the base

Now, I based the base in Flat Black and, after drying, painted a coat of Bestial Brown over it. You can paint more than one, but I wanted one for this miniature since it's not supposed to look quite as flashy. Once that dries, we go on to the actual base!

I'll admit my bases are not the greatest, but I like to make them semi-natural and use dirt from whatever place I happen to be living. This dirt is no exception, and came from right outside my apartment. I added in some model-railroad gravel and flocking, as well as some dead grass that I shredded up, and the end effect is a rubbled, desolate field. I used superglue for the glue (you can use white glue or wood glue, though these take longer to dry) and put it down, then sprinkled my mixture over the base until it was covered with more material than it could take. After fifteen to twenty minutes, I dumped off the excess and sprayed the miniature down with Testors Flat Lacquer (or Dullcote). Two coats is usually enough, and then we have our finished product.

I avoided decals on this one, because I decided that the pirate doesn't care too much about whatever tech crew he can get to fix his 'mech. I mean, he's a pirate!

I hope you've enjoyed this write-up, and I hope that you enjoyed it enough to keep my ugly brushes around for another month! Thanks for takin' the time to read through this! Until next month (I hope!)!!

See the Finished Pictures