The Armor - All I could see was red!
Painting the red portions of the armor
Here I used 77-718 Red, and just filled in the armor with this color where
needed. Easy enough!
Making the Red stand out even more
Once I was satisfied that I had the red areas covered well enough, I had to
make that red really stand out. One of the best ways to do this is by a very
very light dry brushing with a light orange or yellow. Anywhere that the red
is against an edge, you should actually just brush on the lighter color in a
very fine line on the edge. You should only dry brush on areas that are edge-
like areas such as the sharpest edge or leading edge of a forearm or shin.
You really don't want to cover the red completely. The effect is an illusion
of lighting from a foreign source of light. On this miniature, this is a very
subtle effect and I don't know if it will be visible in the photos. There are no sharp
edges that require the fine line so the dry brushing merely gives depth to the
red.
Note: Sorry about skipping around, but at this point the head had been
finished where the eyes are, so I'm going to finish the eyes first. I'll
finish this step later!
The Eyes
I decided to use a jewel painting technique for the bad boys eyes. It's just
a few easy steps and it will give them a lot of depth and oooooh will they
look good! First I set the stage for the eye by using a tiny bit of black wash
to bring out the wrinkles around the eye. Once dry, I began the eye itself.
Here's how:
- Paint the whole eyeball black.
- Paint the whole eyeball 77-710 Forest Green. [if you can do it, leave a
slight edge of black - good luck]
- Paint most of the eyeball 77-709 Shamrock Green.
- Put a very small highlighting or reflection spot (like pin point size) of
77-784 Bullywug's Belly Green [you could substitute white or bright yellow for
this]
Tada! A very nice eyeball! Any over-painting can be corrected with a touch up
of your red paint. Typically, my Gurzon's right eye turned out better than
the left. I hate that! (Don't look too close, Bill...)
Back to the Armor...
Silver plating
There is less silver than gold on this miniature, so I'm painting the silver
first. Using 77-702 Silver Metallic, I block painted the plates. Easy enough
again! I'm not painting the silver detailing yet.
Gold Plating
Same as above, only gold - 77-701 Gold Metallic.
Steel
Where the plate looks black, I decided on using 77-704 Steel instead. Almost
done with the armor!
Belts
Just paint the belts black! Then I highlighted some of the edges with
77-707 Grey.
Details, Details I swear!
Teeth
Gurzon's teeth I painted 77-706 White. Then I washed them with black. His
gums/lips I painted with the sample blood red color.
Rivets
All of the rivets I painted 77-722 Copper Metallic.
Note: Once the metal was finished, I went back over it with a black wash.
Where the black was too prominent, I repainted the metal color.
Nails
The nails I simply painted black.
Armor details
I painted all of the detail on the armor - such as chains and skulls - Metallic
Silver.
Basing this bad boy out
This is how I like to do my bases. First I start with 77-710 Forest Green.
When this is dry, I apply a layer of watered-down white glue. While the glue
is wet, I dip the base in Woodland Scenics Blended Turf, Green Blend. When
this is dry, I paint the edges of the base black (if it has edges). Sometimes
a base shouldn't be grass covered so I do other things as well, but I'm not
going into that here.
The Staff
The staff has three basic parts, the shaft, the face, and the metal ends.
The shaft
First I painted the entire shaft 77-712 Leather.
I followed that with a wash of 77-714 Dark Brown, but only over the top
half of the shaft.
The lower half of the shaft I drybrushed with a sample bottle of bright
yellow. The end result is a shaft going form a nice piney yellow color to a
dark walnut sort of thing.
The Face
I began with a layer of 77-731 Khaki.
Then I washed the face with 77-912 Cleric Brown to bring out the shadows.
Then I dry brushed the face for highlights with 77-715 Ivory.
The last bit was to paint the inside of the mouth the sample blood red
color, the eyes 77-709 Shamrock Green, and the teeth white.
The Metal Ends
I painted both ends of the staff with 77-702 Silver Metallic. I washed the
lower end with black and painted the large flat areas of the blade on the top
with 77-901 Aged Metal.
Black Lining
In this step, you go to each feature of the miniature and decide whether or not
a black line should shadow it. Or, if there are any areas like between the
legs that should be shadowed so dark they would be black. I black lined the
edges of the armor. I also painted black around the face guards on the helmet
between the face and the helmet to give the effect of the guards being thin
plates of metal.
Check Your Work [and fix the boo-boos, Hey! What boo-boo's?]
In this step, you must very carefully examine the miniature. You need to look
for the not-so-obvious places where you over-painted an edge or under-painted
and left it primer colored (or any other wrong color for that matter.)
Correct all of these mistakes now as it will be more difficult after you
have put on the final clear finish.
Protection
Once you are completely satisfied with the paint job, it's time to finish
the paint with a clear over coat. With this miniature I chose to use Testers
Dull Coat. I wanted a flat finish.
The only problem with a flat finish is, not everything on a miniature
should be dull! None of the metal would be dull and the teeth and eyes would
definitely be wet looking. The solution? Using a brush I painted over these
areas with a water-based high gloss clear coat.
Pat yourself on the back - you're done!
Kick yourself for having
painted this for someone else, box it up, and ship it...
This is the case with many miniatures that I have painted for other people.
Even some of the ones that I don't particularly care for when they are "raw,"
after they are done, I really like them. I know I will be purchasing this
miniature soon and painting my way!
I would like to thank Bill for the opportunity to show him and
you my painting techniques and abilities. Matt Clark
Minis By Matt
|