(AKA Amanda Kear) writes:Stage 4: The Wet Blending
To do this, I've got Titanium White and Unbleached Titanium on the go at the same time. For both, there's a blob of straight-from-the-tube paint and then I dilute on the pallet around that, from just dampening it slightly (near the blob) to making a very dilute wash (further away). So for each colour, I've typically got a range of consistencies going.
I pick an area of Unbleached Titanium, and go over it a second time with brush C, applying more of that colour. The second brush has got dilute white on it and gets dabbed across raised areas and boundary areas. The pic below shows this process started on the horse's rump - white dabbed on raised areas of the rump over wet Unbleached Titanium.
Then it is turn about with the brushes, mixing the two colours of paint on the model while they are still wet, and picking up more and more dilute paint of one colour to try and make the gradation look natural. Brushes with a slightly broken tip are ideal for this.
Stage 5:
I now give the mane and tail a wash in Rowney Cryla Burnt Umber. The eyes, nostrils and mouth also get a wash of this to pick them out. If your horse has any feathering above the hooves, then you can wash that area too. The hooves are given a coat of Games Workshop Dwarf Flesh, more or less straight as it comes out of the pot. I wet the brush enough to help the paint flow, but don't really thin it down.
Stage 6:
The mane is drybrushed in Unbleached Titanium. Actually it is more of a "sticky brush" than a drybrush, to get a fair amount of paint transferred to the raised surfaces of the mane. The hooves get a wash in Burnt Umber.
Note: If you have lost interest in the whole idea of doing a pinto horse, you can decide at this point to make it a creamy white horse instead, and skip on to Stage 9.
