wonders if he can resize 3Dprinted dungeon tiles to match his other dungeon tiles…
Stage 4:
This is the first wet-blending stage. For this there are two brushes and two colours of paint on the go at once. For both colours, there's a blob of straight-from-the-tube paint slapped on the pallet, and then I dilute around that, from just dampening it slightly (near the blob) to making a very dilute wash (further away). So for each colour, I've typically got a range of consistencies going.
The two colours are Burnt Umber and Bronze Yellow. I pick an area of the (by now) dry wash of Burnt Umber, and go over it a second time with one brush loaded with more of that colour - this is much less dilute than the original wash. My second brush has got Bronze Yellow on it, and gets dabbed across raised areas and boundary areas so that the colour bleeds into the Burnt Umber areas a little. Then it is turn about with the brushes, mixing the paint on the model while it is still wet, and picking up more and more dilute paint of one colour to try and make the gradation look natural. (Brushes with a slightly broken tip are ideal for this.) When satisfied with the mix, I set the minis aside to dry again.
And getting bored while waiting for them to dry, I started on the base, painting the polyfilla with Winsor & Newton Naples Yellow. While I'm at it, I do the inside of the mouth with GW Tanned Flesh.
Stage 5:
The second stage of wet-blending. This time brush one has Bronze Yellow, whilst brush two has Bronze Yellow lightened and brightened by mixing it with Winsor & Newton Golden Ochre and Unbleached Titanium. The technique is as for stage 4, but concentrating on raised areas of the models.
