At some point between the time I received the model and the time I started painting, I decided that Vallejo's Salmon Rose would be the base color, Andrea Colors Purple (AC-14) and Violet (AC-23) would add variation, and Vallejo's German Gray would be the final color. Prior to inflicting these colors on the miniature, I tested the scheme on an old model part (canvas to a 1/35 scale German staff car, I think). I also tested the way I would apply the paint.

I wanted to avoid doing a lot of highlighting and shading, but I still wanted to get some type of highlighting and shading effect. So I thought I would control the "intensity" (for lack of a better term) of the paint by mixing it with Future floor polish as I painted. My thinking was that the variation in thinned paint would allow the base color to show through in some areas and not in others. I also decided that, in lieu of a regular paintbrush, I would use natural sponge as the applicator.
Alligator clips attached to dowels make handy little tools that I use for lots of different things. In this case, I used the tool to hold the pieces of sponge.![]()
In this next picture, the Salmon basecoat is apparent. The rock that hides the joint area of the tail is clearly visible, and I've noticed something else that will need a bit of attention later on - a crab that wants to avoid having dinner with the Sea Dragon.

The next three pictures show the progression of the painting process. Here's what I'm doing between the pictures:
I place some of the purple paint on my palette. I place a small amount of Future on another part of the palette. I dip the sponge into the Future, and then into the paint. I then blot that mixture on a piece of scrap paper. I watch as I continue to blot the sponge on the paper. Once I notice that I've got the mixture and sponge pattern producing the effect I want, I apply it to the figure.
I wanted the purple patterns to cover everything except the belly of the beast. The violet paint would cover areas a little higher on the sides and top of the model, and the dark gray would cover the top (as well as provide some contrast to the sides of the dragon).
I kept an eye out for any air bubbles that formed, and made sure that I popped those before they had a chance to dry and create little crater areas that wouldn't look right on Dark Sword's nicely detailed dragon.


