Help support TMP


Painting Lyria, Female Centaur


Masterworks: Elmore Set #1
Product #
DSM1001
Manufacturer
Suggested Retail Price
$29.95 USD


Back to Workbench


Laffe Eriksson writes:

Re: Future.

In Sweden it's supposed to be SC Johnson's "Pledge KlarPolish" (make sure you get the one marked for plastic floors). Since I don't have a bottle or real Future, I can't really compare them. It seems to work for me in exactly the same way that Future works for everyone else.


Revision Log
24 August 2006page first published

8,388 hits since 24 Aug 2006
©1994-2014 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Minidragon Fezian Inactive Member writes:

Lyria has been staring at me from a strategic perch on my workbench for a long while now. I had placed her where I wouldn't be able to forget about her... and then promptly forgot about her. Bill asked me recently how the Masterworks figs were coming, and I realized I needed to get this mini knocked out!

I tend to focus on one or two areas for my Workbench articles. This one will be no different. My thinking is that I can explain a couple things in depth, rather than simply give an overview of the entire painting process. For this figure, I'll focus on how I painted three bits; Lyria's horsey-bits, her hair, and her bow.

I've explained how I paint hair at least once before, but I wanted to do it again for this figure, as I intend to paint her hair black. Highlighting black often gives people trouble, especially on hair many times it comes out looking gray; we'll see if I can avoid that common misstep.

As ever, I start by cleaning and assembling the miniature. Needle files and my X-acto knife remove flash and mold lines, and then she gets a warm, soapy bath. In the first photo, you can see that I've got the bow in place (it's just held on with Blu-tack to get a feel for how it will look); once I start painting I'll leave the bow off... I do this to give easy access the stuff that would be hard to get to with the bow in place. Also, the bow attachment point is ludicrously fragile; there's no way it would survive the painting process intact! This makes me very concerned about shipping the figure - I'll have to do my best to attach it securely, and pack it very carefully.

Assembled centaur

Next, you can see that I've basecoated the entire figure in a deep, warm brown. It's warm because it's reddish. Red = warm, blue = cold. This color will be the mid-tone for the horsey-bits.

Basecoated

The third photo shows the mini after a liberal wash with a mix of black ink, brown ink, Future Floor Wax, and water (1:1:1:4 ratio). This establishes some shading, black-lines things for me, and brings out detail that might be hard to see. An additional benefit of the ink wash is that it creates a pretty tough layer the wax does, anyway; this helps to keep me from rubbing paint off as I work.

Washed

In Photo 4, I've (pretty sloppily) painted my original brown onto the horse's muscles, I've been careful to leave some of the darker color showing.

Browned