mxconnell: "A Tough Nut to Crack"

Gaius the Murmillo
Product #	GLD-08
Manufacturer	Alpha Miniatures
Suggested Retail Price	$10 USD

Back to MXCONNELL'S GAIUS THE MURMILLO

Back to Workbench

mxconnell writes:

Bill –
The measurements are mostly eyeballed. Since 95% of my paint is Delta, I count drops from the bottle as I slowly squeeze. I've been able to get very consistent mixes from session to session. It also aids in cleaning up goofs in later sessions. I've been using Delta long enough that my eye is very calibrated to the drop size and can make a good estimate when the paint comes from other containers. All the drops go into one of those small, six-dimple mixing trays you can get from any art's and craft store. I mix the paint with a craft toothpick – mixing is not a brush friendly act.

nycjadie -
No they didn't. I set up a small phot area next to my bench. I could take a couple photos in less than a minute. I spent about three hours editing and labeling photos, and about four hours actually writing. Yes, I'm putting a lot of effort into it, but it's given me as much fun as the painting. I think the deliberateness of prep has forced me to think a lot more about what I'm doing which is improving my painting. After all the struggle with fleshtones on the German Leader, my next skin tone on a 28mm was really kicked up a notch.

Martin

Revision Log
16 November 2005	page first published

Areas of Interest

Ancients

Featured Hobby News Article

New Releases From Miniature Building Authority

The Kingdoms of Kush

Featured Ruleset

Battle of Adrianople (378 AD)

Featured Showcase Article

Cheap Undead Dinos III

The last - the most elusive - set of dino skellies...

Featured Profile Article

June Contest Winner: Hoplite Baggage Vignette

Yesthatphil is the winner of the June 2015 contest with this wonderful entry.

Featured Book Review

Great Battles of the Classical Greek World

mxconnell writes:

Starting on the Figure

The molded-on base was clipped off, and filed flush with the bottom of the feet. Pins were placed in each foot. Three layers of Tamiya Smoke were applied to the chainmail of the manica (arm armor), the sword, and the boss on the shield. The rest was given a coat of Floquil primer.

The flesh was a tough nut to crack. I searched the web for what other painters had done to achieve the ebony skintone I was looking for. Most were trying to get more medium tones. I did find one formula on planetfigure.com (a military miniature website). I played around with some variations, and decided to base my mix on Dark Burnt Umber and Velvet Blue.

The base flesh was coated with Dark Burnt Umber, Velvet Blue, and Magic Wash in a ratio of 2:1:3 (Photo 4A). The next layer used Dark Burnt Umber, Matt Varnish, and Magic Wash in a ratio of 2:1:3. In Photo 4B the third layer of Dark Burnt Umber, Medium Flesh, Matt Varnish, and Magic Wash (3:1:1:4) starts to become visible. In Photo 4C and 4D, the final layer of Dark Burnt Umber, Medium Flesh, AC Flesh, Matt Varnish, and Magic Wash (3:1:1:1:5).

Later on, I felt the shadows weren't deep enough - they didn't quite have enough blue tint. I punched up the shadows with a wash of Velvet Blue, Black, Dark Burnt Umber, and Magic Wash (3:2:1:8).