| Doug em4miniatures | 21 Jan 2009 8:59 a.m. PST |
A tradesman, fitting a new work-surface in the kitchen, has broken a favourite fruit bowl of Celia's. He's very contrite and offered to replace, repair – whatever it takes. I've told him not to worry, I can probably repair it as well as he can. So I'm wondering, is super-glue the best or are there special adhesives for ceramics. Anyone any info? Doug |
| rdjktjrfdj | 21 Jan 2009 9:21 a.m. PST |
Superglue is probably not strong enough. Try finding the glue used for repairing stone work. It is very durable and strong and you can use it do model all the chips that have become lost. You can also add some pigments to it, but better ask the supplier about the ratio and type. Difficult puzzle assembly that I myself have been putting off for several years. Good luck! |
| Ed Mohrmann | 21 Jan 2009 9:44 a.m. PST |
We've some Franciscan 'Desert Rose' (it was Grandmother's) which over the years has suffered a number of dings and fractures. I've always had good luck with Elmer's White Glue, suitably thinned (or not, depending upon the type of fracture, location, etc.) But you must let it cure for several days. The thinning is to allow penetration into the pores of the material. That's why it requires a few days dry time. |
| pphalen | 21 Jan 2009 10:00 a.m. PST |
I used Gorrilla Glue to repair a handle for my Son's "Special" Christmas present from is teacher. It holds really well (and it is sandable to make it look better). It may be rough for a bowl, though, depending on if you are able to fight the expansion of the glue
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| Doug em4miniatures | 21 Jan 2009 10:05 a.m. PST |
Thanks for the input so far. Elmer's is not something we have in the UK but I have a feeling it's what we call white glue – not sure. Similarly Gorilla glue is probably a US speciality – I've never heard of it here. There's probably a local equivalent. I've also found this: link which sounds like it should be ideal. Anyone tried it? Doug |
| Cher Ami | 21 Jan 2009 10:05 a.m. PST |
The bowl will not be able to be submerged in water after the repair. And kudos to you for being so understanding to the tradesman! |
| x42brown | 21 Jan 2009 11:01 a.m. PST |
Your link to the araldite ceramic and glass. I have used an araldite product of that name on a glass lampshade successfully. I am not sure if its the same stuff as the packaging looks different. It has had a bit of rough treatment since the repair without breaking. x42 |
| bloodeagle | 21 Jan 2009 4:56 p.m. PST |
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| Andrew Walters | 21 Jan 2009 5:15 p.m. PST |
Elmers = White glue = Polyninyl Acrylate, PVA Gorilla Glue = polyurethane glue Other than that I'm here to listen and learn. Andrew |
| the Gorb | 21 Jan 2009 5:21 p.m. PST |
I use Milliput superfine white. Repairs even stand up to dishwashers. Regards, the Gorb |
| Doug em4miniatures | 22 Jan 2009 3:45 a.m. PST |
The good news is that the perpetrator knocked £100.00 GBP off the bill to cover the damage so I've got plenty of loose change to buy all the suggested items above. Thanks all. Doug |
| Ed Mohrmann | 22 Jan 2009 3:47 a.m. PST |
As to White Glue and water: NOT ! Granny's china isn't dishwasher safe anyway, and all the repaired pieces get handwashed with much TLC. |
| Martin Rapier | 23 Jan 2009 8:38 a.m. PST |
I usually repair ceramics with two-part epoxy resin (Araldite). I'm astonished PVA works at all. |