"Finishing out the interior of a metal "kit" building?" Topic

So, I'm a lucky dawg… My grandparents got wind of my long term goal of building a shop by my house. So, they decided to buy me a kit building!

This is wonderful, except for one minor issue. What I had been dreaming of building would be a finished out structure with power and environmental controls. Something with a small air conditioner and heater, lighting, etc.

So, I've got this nice building. But it's a metal shed sort. An Arrow model LX1014 (http://www.sheds.com/lexington.htm). It's the roughly 10' x 14' one. It also came with a floor kit and they kindly purchased plywood for me to floor it with.

But, in order to make it what I truly want it to be, I need to figure out how to finish it out. And, it has to be on the cheap, as I have literally NO budget for this. I need to construct the building now, or else it will sit in storage forever and never get done. I'm a realist and know how it will play out if I don't get on with it! However, it might not be a problem to construct it now and finish it out later.

My initial thinking was that I could frame the inside with 2x4s, install electrical wiring, outlets, lights, etc., insulate it and put up panelling. However…

First, how would I attach the framing to the walls? Do I even need to?

Also, how much space am I going to lose to the interior walls? It might be too much. Maybe I could get away with 2x2s for framing, since they won't really be load bearing? But, would that make it impossible to do the electrical wiring? Of course, I could surface-mount the recepticles on the outside of the walls, I suppose…

What about finishing out and insulating the cieling? Maybe putting in a window for a small air conditioner?

So, my question to the great collective knowledge of TMP is this: If YOU had this spiffy new storage building and you wanted to finish it out inside, as I described above, how would you go about it? Especially, if you had very limited funds to do it with!

Well, a 2x4" used for framing is actually abit less than 2x4" (1 3/4 x about 3/5") so add on 3/8" drywall and you've lost basiclaly 4" all around the interior. Yoiu can turn a 2x4 sideways (or use a 2x2, I suppose) to get a thinner wall. I'd wonder about the ability of a 2x2 to take the weight of the drywall.

In terms of securing it, you could bolt parts of the frmaing through the shed walls (need washer, appropriate drill bit and carriage bolts) but that might lead to moisture. If you are going to insulate and heat/cool, you mkight want ot look at putting in a vapour barrier (basically plastic sheeting that keeps the moisture and thus mold away from the drywall).

Alternately, you could spend some time making the frame free-standing and self-supporting within the shed (but touching the walls). Again, something to consider is what sort of weight is going to hang on the walls (drywall is heavy as are any shelves or workbench you might want to attach to the wall).

I'd be mindful of the wiring in a metal shed--you wouldn't want to make the exterior hot with a badly connected or misgrounded box.

I'd check with the mfg of the shed. I'm sure they have had these questions before.

This is a shed. It was probably never intended to be "finished". I have used structures like this over the years to store lawn mowers, fishing gear, my wife's potting soil and other "out door" stuff. Also a great place to put the hose and watering stuff in the winter.

If you are really bent on finishing this use the 2x4 framing suggestion above. But if you are going to do that, sell the metal building and build a frame structure. T 1-11 siding is probably the cheapest way to go there.

As for the window. This can be really nice as it's pretty hard to find stuff without a light. I have a window in my wooden shed 2x4 frame structure (16' x 8') Down side is that thieves can see what you have in there too.

Check your insurance policy or call your insurance company. Often they will not cover your stuff unless the shed is attached to your house somehow. Wiring the shed often constitutes "attachment".

mjc

@Bob – Yeah, I'm aware of the sizing differences on finished lumber. Actually, I may be able to get access to some rough cut 2x4s, but they're actually 2 x 4 inches, which will cost me more interior space. Still, if I can get them free, it might be worth it. Perhaps using roofing screws with neoprene washers to attach the metal to the inner framework would be sufficient? I think the interior walls will have to be self-supporting, but attached to the outer walls. Also, I plan on using panelling rather than drywall, to save on space, weight and cost. Simpler to install as well!

Very good advice regarding the metal outside of the building and the electical connections. My current plan is to install a breaker in the box outside my house and run it through PVC electrical conduit out to the building. Given the metal shell of the building, it might be wise to run it in the conduit inside the walls too, rather than plain romex like you normally see in interior wiring.

@Doctor X – Actually, I was discussing this with my father last night and we came to the same conclusion. I just haven't gotten around to contacting them yet. I have a feeling they can give me info, but they may be a bit skittish, given potential liability issues and the silly lawsuits that have plagued the country in recent years…

@quidveritas – You're correct. The building isn't really designed to be finished out. But, I need to be able to use it for more than storage to make it truly useful to me. This means A/C and heating. That, in turn, means electicity and insulation. In effect, the items I have now will provide little more than a floor and outer walls.

Selling it would only provide a very limited portion of the funds I'd need to build a proper shed, and if I build it now then I can make some use of it prior to finishing it out, if the weather isn't too hot or cold. Still, it might be worth looking into it. The main sticky point there is that the building was a gift… :-/

As for a window, I would want natural light in addition to the electical lights I plan to install. Also, I would need a window for a small A/C unit.

Good idea about the insurance! Especially if I use it for anything expensive, such as a game room with all my books and minis in there, or if I build a simpit in there for one of my other hobbies.

Thank you all for your thoughts on this! It's much appreciated!

If anyone has more to add, I'd love to hear it! For now, I have to go finish making sure all the parts are there and get it covered for when the rain comes this week!

Thanks!

I wish I were more help here but . . .

A very good Shed / out building that is heated and powered needs to be, IMHO, at least 12 x 16 feet to be cost effective. A suitable foundation can be done using cinder [sp] blocks and running treated 4 x 4 or 4 x 6 timbers along the short axis. It's cheap and works great (3 sheds -- standing 25 years -- no problems of any kind).

Having said that this kind of structure, finished, will cost you at least $10,000.00 USD. I truly wish it were otherwise. The last 8 x 16' shed I build cost a touch over $5,000.00 and this was not insulated. I'm still kicking myself for not making it 12 x 16 but that's another story.

Well best of luck.

mjc

Ultimately, it may be that I'll have to actually BUILD the shop I want and use this only for storage. However, the money is never there, and likely won't be any time soon… :-(

I hate being broke!

Also, I think you spelled cinder block correctly. :-)

I like the idea of that foundation. Sounds simple yet sturdy. Lot's of buildings around here are based on cinder block pillars with floor joists or just beams as you described. That might help cut the cost of a foundation, should I ever build the shop I really want!

Good idea on the panelling--much cheaper, lighter and easier to install. Plus no mudding and sanding (did this in the basement bath to save some money and never again!).