"Bloodletters of Khorne Released" Topic

I got some of these yesterday, and nice they are! Better perhaps even then the 1st GEN Bloodletters!

Damon.

They are nice, I actually like them better then the 1st generation. Same with the Demonettes, they are just as nice a well. Now just need plastic horrors and plague bearers.

It is interesting that GW is going back to the original designs with a bit of an updated look. Of course for those of us with the last two incarnations that gives is three different distinctive units to put on the table if you wanted to do an all Khorne deamon army.

Agree about the current horror, I eventually sold them off at a flea market unassembled as they were impossible to put together. Platic horrors would be easier to build and convert but it appears they are sticking with the metal horrors for now.

What's the problem with assembling the Horrors of Tzeentch? I built them with no problem -- just fixed the pieces with superglue, then once that was dry applied a bit of 5-minute epoxy. A tough, resilient join!

Lose the overly elongated head bit and they'll make great generic daemons too.

The problem was even though I am a very skilled modeler and had cleaned the parts and even tried drilling and pining the super glue would not hold and the parts were so small and difficult to deal with that I said screw it! I even bought a fresh bottle of suger glue thinking perhaps the bottle of glue I had was bad.

I had better things to assemble with my time. Yes I could have gone with epoxy which would taken even more time but at that point I was fed up with trying to make these figures go together. I should have keep my original horrors and just used them.

In fact I have noticed of late a difficultiy getting super glue (I use Zap a Gap) to work on any GW metal models without heavy use of pinning and kicker to harden the glue. Anyone else have this problem? And yes I clean off the casting residue (something I never had to worry about before) and even take a fine wire brush to the models to remove dirt, greese and any possible residue before glueing.

I've always pinned my models. If I have a problem, I use a SMALL amount of green stuff (to hold it in place) and zap a gap.

Watch out for the kicker – it makes the glue brittle so down the road it breaks easier.

LIG

Yep well aware of the brittle problem which is why I attempt using it. Sometimes that is the only way to get a part to hold. I have started using green stuff more often to hold parts in place.

I ment to write attempt to NOT use it.

"Watch out for the kicker – it makes the glue brittle so down the road it breaks easier."

I have been using the accelerent for four or more years and haven't had a problem. But I mainly use it on plastic figures, and they don't travel to cons, so maybe that's why it has worked out for me.

Should have added – picked up these fellows a couple of hours ago – may have a chance of assembling them tomorrow.

Ya know, 10 plastics for 22.00…I was shocked. I would have expected them to be like 32.00-40.00
I may actually buy them in the future!

Yes, nice deal…

For brittleness of superglue on plastic joins, I have a solution: don't use super glue! Use a solvent based cement like Plastruct Plastic Weld, or Testors PLastic Cement in the glass jar…

Damon.

In fact I have noticed of late a difficultiy getting super glue (I use Zap a Gap) to work on any GW metal models without heavy use of pinning and kicker to harden the glue. Anyone else have this problem?

I use Zap-a-Gal CA+. It's sets relatively quickly (15-30 seconds tops – unless we're talking fingers, in which case it sets in 1 second).

My advice … NEVER, EVER, NEVEREVER, EVER use a kicker. They all accomplish two chemical reactions. #1 they force the glue to harden quicker, and #2 they make the joint more brittle. The whole point of the join is to make it solid. Why do something to make it more brittle?

If there is enough surface area, a good, fast-acting super glue should do the trick. If not, I pin. When in doubt, I pin. I've never had a pinned joint break, ever.

And I second the comment above that super glue is meant for metal on metal, and metal on plastic. Buyt if it's two plastic pieces, there is no better glue than Testors in the glass jar, with the brush applicator in the lid. Apply a bit to BOTH pieces, count to 10 (gives it time to start melting the plastic) then press together and count to 10.

It will remain stuck, but moveable for a few seconds, so if it's attaching an arm to a torso, you can attach it then pivot it a bit to get the right pose. But don't over do the movement.

I never had much luck with Testors glue before, but may try it again, trying the 10 second delay trick.

Whitemanticore, I also have the same problem with metal GW figures. I scratch, degreese, file and still have problems with superglue sticking GW metal parts. Glue was not a problem as I tried it on other manufacturer's figures at the same time and had no problems whatsoever. Putting together GW metal Ogres was a nightmare.

Ya know, 10 plastics for 22.00…I was shocked. I would have expected them to be like 32.00-40.00
I may actually buy them in the future!

Considering you could get 16-20 of them for $32-$35, 10 for $22 USD isn't value for money, unless bought at a discount.

When Wargames Factory comes out with their multi-part Celts, 48 for $30 USD and compatible with GW plastics in size, I'll be using them as Marauders.

I never had much luck with Testors glue before, but may try it again, trying the 10 second delay trick.

Definitely worth a try, mweaver. Even more important is to apply the glue to both pieces, even though that sounds silly or unnecessary as it might seem that the glue will just get on both pieces when you bond them anyway -- but its not! The glue begins to react to the plastic as soon as it is applied. Good luck!

"Considering you could get 16-20 of them for $32-$35, 10 for $22 USD USD isn't value for money, unless bought at a discount."

That's like saying since I can buy a Geo at $10K, a BMW at 40K is a rip off.

Damon.

Couldn't agree more with you Garand.

It seems that anytime GW is mentioned people will always find a reason to complain. By all means people if you don't like there product don't buy it, but complaining every time about a company serves no purpose.

Thanks, khurasanminiatures.

I have half of mine assembled (shhh… super glue and accelerant – haven't had time to pick up any Testors glue), and they are going together fine.

That's like saying since I can buy a Geo at $10K, a BMW at 40K is a rip off.

Had you bothered to notice, the Wargames Factory example was about a choice and hence the second paragraph. The first paragraph was pertinent to the response, that 2 boxes of ten cost more than the old box of 16-20. Drop the car example, you think buying plastic figures is a status symbol?
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It seems that anytime GW is mentioned people will always find a reason to complain. By all means people if you don't like there product don't buy it, but complaining every time about a company serves no purpose.

It seems whenever GW is mentioned the fanboyz will always find a way to kiss ass. Do you know how long I have been playing WFB? If you do not have anything to substantive to contribute do not bother and enough with the group attack.