| Xintao | 02 Jan 2007 8:18 a.m. PST |
Seems every time I try to cut Foam Core, the paper catches on the blade and rips instead of cutting. Any tips on tools, techniques, etc? Thanks Much Xin |
| Pictors Studio | 02 Jan 2007 8:19 a.m. PST |
I use a laser. It is the best way I have found. |
| fairoaks024 | 02 Jan 2007 8:32 a.m. PST |
you have to use a brand new blade regularly, as a blunt blade just tears the coating. foamcore blunts blade more quickly than you'd expect. regards jim |
| Smidro | 02 Jan 2007 8:33 a.m. PST |
I use one of those hobby knives with the break off edges. Foam core dulls blades fast and with the break off tips you always have a sharp tipped blade ready and the X-acto one is nice and slim for those tight corners. |
Lord Billington Wadsworth  | 02 Jan 2007 8:34 a.m. PST |
They have tools made specifically for cutting foamcore dickblick.com/zz574/44 If you are going to use an xacto or similar blade, you'll need to change the blade really frequently (like every 5-10 cuts) or else you end up tearing the paper ;) You can also make a quick light cut to cut through the paper, again to cut through the foam and one more for the paper on the other side. Lastly, gatorboard is a wonderful alternative for foamcore as its very lightweight, durable and won't warp – plus, with a sharp knife it cuts really well. |
Bobgnar  | 02 Jan 2007 9:13 a.m. PST |
Besides using a sharp knife, as mentioned, use shallow cuts. Do not try to cut through entire piece with one slice. Break the paper surface on one side with first slice, then cut the foam, then slice again to get the bottom paper layer. Use the sharpest knife to do the paper, but you can use a more used one on the foam. Cut the foam with a sawing motion. |
| CPBelt | 02 Jan 2007 9:26 a.m. PST |
That Logan cutter looks nice, but it costs $20. USD It would solve my problem of never getting a square cut. My blades always angle just a bit when cutting, having the top longer or shorter than the bottom of the foam. This has made working with foam core a real PITA for me. Cutting window openings is also a nightmare. |
| Jovian1 | 02 Jan 2007 9:47 a.m. PST |
Unfortunately the advice above is probably your best solution – in my experience you go to Michaels and purchase the 50 pack of #10 Xacto blades and start cutting. When you are done, you have a couple of blades left over – depending on the size of the project. |
| NoNameEither | 02 Jan 2007 10:10 a.m. PST |
Never try to cut it in one go. If you cut slowly and steadily, using 3 cuts per sheet (top layer, then foam, then bottom layer) then a new blade (or snap-off blade section) can last you a fair while. If the foam starts tearing in the middle then you have to change blade. My blades always angle just a bit when cutting, having the top longer or shorter than the bottom of the foam This is easy to remedy for free: Cut along a steel ruler with only one eye open – have that eye lined up directly above the cutting line and cut toward you – you should be able to produce a perfect cut this way. (indeed you can cut a virtually straight edge without even using a ruler using this methodology) Cutting window openings is also a nightmare. Mark out the window on the foamboard, then cut the window smaller than you need it – then sand it down using a "sanding stick" (or glue some 400-600 grit wet'n'dry to a piece of plywood) sand it down to the exact size you want (the marks you put on originally). Doesn't take very much longer and is as precise as you need it to be, plus you get nice sharp 90degree corners. |
aecurtis  | 02 Jan 2007 12:51 p.m. PST |
Darn link didn't work
Allen |
| rmaker | 02 Jan 2007 1:20 p.m. PST |
Back when I was working theater scenery crew, we cut Foamcore with a saber saw. You can get a knife blade (no teeth) for it. Works fine and is reasonably fast, but may not be precise enough for what you're doing. Also, you'd have to dress the edges, since the saw leaves them a little rough. |
| Ambassador | 02 Jan 2007 2:19 p.m. PST |
X-acto makes a foam board cutter that you can pick up at Wal-Mart or similar big box store for about $9. USD It allows you to cut at 90 or 45 degrees, plus it holds two blades so you could cut long strips if you needed to. |
| Xintao | 02 Jan 2007 2:55 p.m. PST |
Thanks guys. Woot, I get to go buy more tools. |
| cloudcaptain | 02 Jan 2007 3:53 p.m. PST |
My fine tooth table band saw works well with foam core. |
| crewchiefmodels | 02 Jan 2007 8:28 p.m. PST |
The logan cutter works great. With a fresh blade the cut will come out perfectly. |
Bobgnar  | 03 Jan 2007 11:37 a.m. PST |
I have had good luck cutting FC board with razor blades. Not so common in the stores any more but if you can find some, break in half, put tape on non sharp side to hold better and slice away. Also, one side blades, used for paint scraping, work well |
| jimbibbly | 03 Jan 2007 11:50 a.m. PST |
@ Pictors studio
What laser setting do you use because when I've cut through with a laser the foam melts in the middle. What laser, Trotec or Universal? cheers |
| Barks1 | 03 Jan 2007 6:41 p.m. PST |
For windows, puncture the corners first with a drawing pin. This makes it a lot easier to cut and less stressful on the blade. |
| KenFox | 25 Jan 2007 1:44 p.m. PST |
Sorry for the thread necro
haven't had time for the hobby lately. Just keep a whetstone out when you're cutting foam. A few quick passes against the stone will restore the edge. The high carbon steel in an X-Acto blade sharpens very well. (Make sure you know how to sharpen knives though
) |