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"Northwest Frontier Game Photos Posted" Topic


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MiniatureWargaming dot com21 May 2006 12:51 p.m. PST

I just posted a bunch of photos from last night's Northwest Frontier game. The figures are 54mm from Armies In Plastic. The builidngs are from papermodels.at — they are designed for 25mm, but I had them blown up at OfficeMax.

We used Warhammer Historicals' Legends of the Old West for the rules.

It was a lot of fun!

link

the trojan bunny21 May 2006 1:24 p.m. PST

Cool, makes me want AiP minis even more!

How well did LotOW handle colonials battles?

Mike

Frothers Did It Anyway21 May 2006 2:22 p.m. PST

Looking good! I was converting an unused dervish artilleryman into a Mad Mullah (aren't they all??) for my own NWF games earlier this eve – your pics are quite an inspiration to get him causing mayhem in a game asap!

Like the figs too. Might have to pick up a couple, just for fun!

Whatshupp21 May 2006 2:27 p.m. PST

Wow, someone else who does 54mm colonials! Great photo's, how do the Papermodels buildings handle 54's? Nice game, the figs are really nice. You should be happy that AiP is coming out with Bengal Lancers within the year!

Thanks for sharing,
Jim

Whatshupp21 May 2006 4:30 p.m. PST

Also, do you did you make any changes to LotOW, and what profiles did you use?

Thanks,
Jim

MiniatureWargaming dot com21 May 2006 4:31 p.m. PST

Answers to questions:

Legends of the Old West handles colonials just fine. It's the same period, after all. We used Plains Indians stat lines for the Afghans and soldier stat lines for the British/Sihks.

The buildings were blown up to 200% at OfficeMax. I then glued them to poster board. That provided enough stiffness to support the weight of several of the 54s, which I had mounted on 2 inch washers.

miniaturewargaming.com

Ken Portner21 May 2006 6:57 p.m. PST

Are they hard plastic that the paint will stick to?

MiniatureWargaming dot com21 May 2006 7:24 p.m. PST

Ahh .. now there's the problem. They are a softer plastic, and I had the dangdest time getting the paint to stick. I used a primer for plastic, then painted with acrylics. Then I painted over them with Futre Floor wax, then sprayed on Dull Kote. I'm still losing paints on the rifles and the swords when they are accidentally bent.

The next plan: repair the lost paint, then coat the more flexible parts with fingernail polish.

CraigSpiel22 May 2006 8:32 a.m. PST

Outstanding stuff! There are several good techniques for ensuring paint adhesion to plastics. The easiest I have come across so far is to use Spary Tool Dip. Go to an Ace Hardware and find it in the spray paint section. I essence it is a clear or colored spray rubber coating. I prep. the fig., and spray the thing with the Tool Dip. Let dry and prime and paint. After I am done, spray with tool dip again. Basically you paint is sealed between to coats of flexible rubber. I have painted many AiP Sudan figures, and am awaiting 100 more I won on ebay! I keep telling myself to get them all done by Spartacon '07, next January. Glad they are an easy paint!

I have heard alot about LotoW, how big are the units? Does it handle battle size games, or is it skirmish oriented?

There are pictures of the Bengal Lancers on the Steve Weston toy soldier site. They look promising. I am reading Armies of the Raj now, and find myself leaning that way, and away from the Sudan……..not good.

Sgt Slag23 May 2006 10:14 a.m. PST

Your card stock buildings/props look good, but try edging them with either a brown marker, or a black one. You ink the edges where the white shows. It makes an awesome difference in the end product's appearance.

I second the spray-on rubber coating. This stuff goes on very matte, and durable. I paint acrylics directly onto the soft plastic figures (after washing with dish soap, to remove grease/oil), apply either the Dip, or Magic Wash, then I clear coat with the tool handle rubber spray. It works very well. Cheers!

John Leahy Sponsoring Member of TMP25 May 2006 12:40 p.m. PST

Rustoleum Plastic Spray primer WILL solve any paint flaking or chipping issues forever!

Thanks,

John

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