
"Sticky spray-paint" Topic
7 Posts
All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.
Please don't call someone a Nazi unless they really are a Nazi.
For more information, see the TMP FAQ.
Back to the Painting Message Board
Areas of InterestGeneral
Featured Hobby News Article
Featured Link
Featured Ruleset
Featured Showcase Article Is there finally a gluestick worth buying for paper modelers?
Featured Profile Article More mini-trees available for the holidays!
|
| Area23 | 15 May 2006 3:59 a.m. PST |
Yesterday I spray-painted some plastic figures for undercoating, but the paint stays sticky. Could it be I didn't shake well? The paint is supposed to be professional grafitti paint, so it should be quality? Any ideas what to do and how to prevent it? |
| Connard Sage | 15 May 2006 5:09 a.m. PST |
Professional grafitti paint????
whatever next? College degrees in vandalism?
|
| CraigSpiel | 15 May 2006 5:17 a.m. PST |
<<
whatever next? College degrees in vandalism?>> Pretty much any degree from Ohio State qualifies. As for the sticky spray paint, perhaps the paint is reacting with the plastic? I ahve never seen that except with spray tool dip, which is actually a rubber coating. Maybe you can spray a regular primer over it? Craig, MSU grad. |
| Steve Roper | 15 May 2006 5:27 a.m. PST |
Listen to Craig – an MSU Grad knows a thing or two about vandalism. "Win we burn a couch, lose we burn a couch, it's all good" Although I do agree with his assesment of OSU. With respect to the paint – paint drying time is affected by temperature and humidity. If it is cool and wet where you are you may want to wait a longer time to make sure or put a fan on it. Don't be in too much of a rush to give up and make it worse. Rather than spray over it if it stays tacky I would strip it and start over. Steve Go Blue |
| David Moody | 15 May 2006 7:02 a.m. PST |
Professional graffiti paint? Methinks you missed the point of PRIMER. Primer paint is designed for a specific purpose
to create "tooth" on a surface that is otherwise smooth. Using any other sort of paint for your primer is pointless
it simple won't adhere to the model as well. Your model will be more prone to chipping without a proper primer. That said, check you can of graffiti paint
what are the drying times listed in the directions? Given that it probably designed as an outer layer paint that will be exposed to the elements, I imagine it has a pretty slow drying time to allow a bonding seal for resistance to weather conditions
probably 2 days for a full dry. Additionally, it's expecting a surface with a lot of tooth, like brick and masonry. Don't expect it to hold to your lead very well. I think Steve gave you the best advice
strip it and start over
with paint designed to be primer. |
| brotherjason | 15 May 2006 1:46 p.m. PST |
I'd strip and start over as well
If the spray paint is enamel based and depending on your humidity and tempurature conditions it could take a couple of days to fully dry and not be sticky to the touch. I would suggest using a an acrylic based primer like Games Workshop or some other similar product (there are a couple other good ones out there I just don't remember their names off the top of my head). |
| MetalMutt | 15 May 2006 2:30 p.m. PST |
I'd go with acrylic too it tends to be more flexible than enamel once dry and with the best will in the world plastic figures will flex in use. Rather than "grafitti paint" it's not that never-dry security paint designed to ruin the trousers of ne'er-do-wells is it? ;o) |
|