 Editor in Chief Bill   | 12 Apr 2006 3:28 p.m. PST |
Here's a new board for discussing toy soldiers of the traditional style… |
| Andrew Walters | 12 Apr 2006 4:52 p.m. PST |
I'm guessing we're not talking about the green plastic guys from Toy Story. As one with a keen curiousity about the history of our hobby, I'm hoping the people who requested this board will help those of us without a clue understand the definition of the subject matter here: its scope, the state of its art, who's doing what these days… Andrew |
| Warjack | 12 Apr 2006 5:02 p.m. PST |
I'm guessing it is to do with old toy soldiers (ex. Britains). Mike |
| Cosmic Reset | 12 Apr 2006 5:31 p.m. PST |
Strange thought; those plastic army men from my childhood are much older now, than those "old" lead soldiers were during my childhood. I'm so ancient. |
| nycjadie | 12 Apr 2006 9:02 p.m. PST |
Wait until people start talking about what is "traditional." Would that be Scruby, Britains, paper? |
 Dye4minis  | 12 Apr 2006 9:06 p.m. PST |
I am "guessing" that it includes old 25-54mm figures and rules by the likes of Grant, Scruby, Griffith, etc. An example"Units of 36 advancing Minifigs being used in a game of "Rules for the Conduct of a Napoleonic Wargame" by Charles Grant, type of "feeling". Or perhaps even "Little Wars" with neatly dressed lines of old Britians while shooting matchsticks out of spring loaded cannons? Tom Dye
GFI |
| Warjack | 12 Apr 2006 9:35 p.m. PST |
Well that is classed as Old School Wargaming (which we need a board for, by the way). Hmm, Bill, what IS this board for?!?! Mike |
| Ilya Muromets | 12 Apr 2006 9:41 p.m. PST |
"Traditional" means different things to different people. If you take the example of different "traditional" toy figures of the inter-war period for the English they would be Britains lead, Elastolin and Lineol composition figures for the Germans, cast aluminum figures by Quiralu for the French, and the Americans would have leads by Barclay and Maniol, cast iron figures by Grey Iron, and even rubber figures by Auburn Rubber. So, traditional is a very flexible word.
I actually find that Britains lead figures are the tail that wag the dog. Once the late Malcolm Forbes began his collection of Britains, the term "toy soldier" became forever equated with Britains lead figures. This is shame since the diversity of toy soldiers by compaines from around the world is so staggering that Britains "Armies of All Nations" is a mere drop in the bucket.
And as a personal prejudice, Britains did offer armies of all nations if you were satisfied with them all marching at slope arms and painted in the wrong colors. Polish W.W.II soldiers in dark blue-grey uniforms? With all the Poles in England during the war I guess no one at Britains bothered to ask them the color of their uniforms! "I say Nigel, should we ask that Polish bloke at the end of the bar the color of his old Polish national uniform or simply paint them a smashing blue-grey color?" :-P |
| Cacadore | 08 Sep 2006 10:46 a.m. PST |
Anyone tried basing two and a half inch Britains… and can someone recommend some rules? Also there's the German traditional type, one a half inch or thereabouts, which look increadibly flat side on. |
| AGregory | 21 Sep 2006 1:58 p.m. PST |
I do game with 54mm Prince August figures – I base them on 1" square wooden bases 1/8" thick. Cavalry bases are deeper (to fit figures), and artillery/gatling bases are 3"x 4" (I had to cast my own artillery…) E-mail me and I can send you the rules I wrote (although I sometimes play Little Wars, too) They are an ultra-simple, minimalist recreation of warfare as (some) people thought it would be just prior to WWI. Cheers, A Gregory |
| AGregory | 21 Sep 2006 2:02 p.m. PST |
Sorry, forgot my e-mail: ilg21@yahoo.com |
| Sydmod | 26 Sep 2006 10:47 p.m. PST |
@ AGregory – i will drop you an email for those rules. In terms of casting your own arty – how did you do that? I have scuplted and then cast some 54mm Australian colonial forces in RTV silicon drop moulds – did you use this method for the artillery. If so did you have trouble with the wheels especially the spokes – I recall casting Prince August 25mm artillery wheels was always very difficult |
| The Lost Soul | 01 Oct 2006 3:35 p.m. PST |
Cacadore--For rules, go to freewargamesrules--Pete has links to several sets either designed outright for 54's, or easily convertible. You could also check out the Armymen Home page. |
| AGregory | 01 Oct 2006 8:45 p.m. PST |
Yes – casting wheels is always a hit-or-miss proposition. I find that if you get the moulds and metal hot, about one in every 3 pours will produce a useable wheel (if you're not too picky). I make moulds using jeweler's RTV putty (Quick-Sil) and then drop-cast. For the wheel, you might just want to make a master with a fat rim and spokes. I don't use resin, because once it is miscast, it can't be melted down for another attempt. I'm sure you could do a single-sided wheel mould for resin which would work well, though. I like teh Prince August figures because they come with separate heads, arms and bodies, so I can sculpt just a new head or arm to get different poses, etc. |
| Sydmod | 02 Oct 2006 7:20 p.m. PST |
How have you found casting with Quick-sil – I was a little concerned that it might not stand up to the heat? I assume it would work for figures too? I have been using another RTV source but have read that quick-sil could be easier to prepare etc. Have you had any difficulties with it and would you recommend it. I will now email you for those rules – it's been a holiday weekend here in Oz |
| AGregory | 27 Oct 2006 5:20 a.m. PST |
Sorry not to have replied earlier regarding Quick-Sil: Generally, once you learn how to use it (and you have to work pretty quickly) it is excellent. I have used some of my molds to produce a couple of hundred figures with no problems. I will say that it doesn't capture detail as well as liquid RTV, but it is much easier to use. I can easily crank out four or five molds in a morning while I'm doing other things if I have the greens ready. |
