"Tip: Stripping die-cast toys" Topic

Hi all;
I've been asking around on various boards for tips on stripping die-cast toys for use with my pulp games. I just got a message from a fella over at bartertown.com on the subject that may be of use to you folks here. B/c it was a pm, I've removed my informant's name, but a big thanks anyway.

Here it is:

"I am the king of stripping diecast….

Castrol will not work. Diecast is actually not painted, it is powdercoated and then heated or electrified to "melt" the powder into a paint finish. Completely different properties than oil-based or acrylic paint, adn therefore resistent to what works on those mediums.

I prefer to use this stuff called KLEEN STRIP, it comes in a white and metallic orange spraycan. Walmart, Home Depot, Lowe's, Target, all should have it. Kleen Strip is available in spray or a kind of gel, but the spray works best for our application. You'll also need a corningware container to strip in – NO TUPPERWARE. Cannot say this enough times – READ THE SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CAN AND FOLLOW THEM. Kleen Strip is pretty hash stuff – but is the quickest and most completely effective method I've found.

First off, disassemble the diecast – take out screws or drilling out the rivits. Remove all plastic parts (they will not survive my process if you leave them.) Put the parts (and any metal miniatures you want to strip) into a corningware dish, go outside and spray the pile down. Slosh it around and respray for whole coverage. Let sit for a minute. Just a minute. You'll find the diecast paint lifts off so completely and in such large chunks it is like peeling a banana skin off the bare metal – it literally "blisters" off and seperates from the metal on its own.

I've never needed a second go-around stripping diecast

Rinse in cool water, scrubbing with toothbrush, and you might want to spray with Simple Green and scrub again just to get any residual stripper off. For the stripped metal minis, it may take a seconds go around or use of dental picks to get them deeper crevasses, but it is FAST."

Anyone her use this method and can confirm?

I have used oven cleaner – the cheapest I could find. Placed the model in a plastic bag with spray oven cleaner, leave for a week.

Actual model used – Dinky Space 1999.

Most of the paint had come off, a second application got rid of nearly all the paint.

Only issue was the white discolouration on the bare metal which I scrubbed off with an old toothbrush.

Tony

I love paint stripping methods that require MSDS Hazardous Communiaction training and HazMat suits.

Umm, I can vouch for this method!

The oven cleaner method sounds like the safest of the lot! Thanks for sharing. I have a bunch of diecasts sitting around cos I didn't know how to strip the paint.

I just prime right over the existing paint. Seems to work OK for me.

w.

I spray a base coat of Rustoleum dark grey auto primer. It has excellent coverage and provides a surface with good adherence for the color coats you want afterwards. Never had any problems with wear. I don't see any reason or need to use dicey chemicals.

Bruce

I prime over the existing paint as well. I do sand off the tampo graphics first, but that is quick and easy.

I'm working on a 1/48 Grumman Goose die-cast bank for my pulp game right now. It's coming out great.

Marc

Agree with the paint solution instead of stripping; very hazardous and should be done in adult supervision only. I have found proper prep of the model then spray painting, though covering minute details somewhat, works just as well and is much saver.

Mostly I'm just interested in the removal of the decals more than the paint. there are some great planes and vehicles around, but they have a seeming tendency to have all sorts of advertising on them that I don't want.

My instinct was to go with a simple primer over and repaint, but I was concerned with losing detail.

What is everyone ele's experience with these kinds of problems.

And yeah, I was looking at the Goose also.

Mostly I'm just interested in the removal of the decals more than the paint. there are some great planes and vehicles around, but they have a seeming tendency to have all sorts of advertising on them that I don't want.

Use a fine sand paper and the graphics come right off. I learned that lesson on Matchbox cars. Of course remove anything that you can like tires and propellers if possible before you prime. You won't lose any detail
Marc

Strange. I stripped a die cast (Matchbox) Mitsubishi Eclipse with Castrol Super Clean a week or so ago.

Finish came right off after an overnight soak with no trouble whatsoever. Maybe some toys are more powedercoated than others?

Mea Culpa –

I am the one who emailed and posted the response on Bartertown – I sent the email off a little prematurely, but corrected the entry and posted the B-town response right…

I do not have nor did not try Castrol Super Clean – I use Castrol Brake Fluid and got them a bit confused. Maybe Castrol Super Clean DOES work, I would not know – I do know that Kleen Strip does a super-quick and complete job of it the first time, and without waiting overnight or a week.

Granted, you have to take safety precautions because as mentioned – it is not friendly stuff.

Would PineSol also work?

When I first started on my plane I got a bad coat of primer on it. I had to remove it and start over. I used Pinesol then paint thinner to get it off. The primer came off clean but the original color of the plane (Orange and Blue, eeck) remained intact.

Marc

Tangent:

Hey Cromagman and komradebob, is this:

link

… the Goose you guys are talking about. Can you tell me/us about it?

Thanks,

Legion

Having repainted quite a number of LLedo/matchbox diecasts without stripping I fail to see the need. It's dangerous and distinctly unfriendly environmentally. I have tried both using a basic grey metal primer to key acrylics and also some basic unprimed enamel sprays direct to the model. Both work equally well.

Legion,

That is the same Goose I have. Mine was painted with a Gulf Oil theme. It is indeed a bank, but it is so cleverly concealed you really can't tell. The wingspan is about 11 inches.

If you are a member of the HLSS yahoo group (.45 Adventure) I have photos of before and after I painted mine ( I don't claim to be a great painter, it's strictly amateur hour). The before has several figures and a Matchbox truck for scale comparison.

Oh, and you can find these on ebay for 20 bucks after shipping. Don't spend $35 USD on it.

Marc

Hey Marc,

Thanks much for the HLSS goto. I joined and took a look at your Goose pics.

Cool of you to post that Scale Check photo. Answers exactly what I would have asked you about.

I'll be keeping my eyes skinned for one of them from now on.

Legion