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"Painting Zvezda plastic samurai" Topic

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18 Jul 2008 7:38 p.m. PST
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Comments or corrections?

Joegokart00702 Dec 2005 11:12 a.m. PST

Ok, I finally did it, I broke down and bought two boxes of the Zvezda plastic samurai. I got one each of the infantry and cavalry, they are excellent figures. But what has always kept me away from plastic before, is the fear of spending the time painting them and then the paint chipping off. So, those of you out there that have bought these and (assumed) have painted them, please give me some tips as to the best way to keep the paint job permanent (hopefully).

Personal logo D6 Junkie Supporting Member of TMP02 Dec 2005 11:23 a.m. PST

Here's a tried and tested method
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Jovian102 Dec 2005 11:32 a.m. PST

The paint job will never be "permanent" on soft plastics unless you handle them CAREFULLY. This from the experience of painting Airfix figures – some of which are still in use! If you handle them roughly or allow players to "flex" them, the paint/sealer/etc. will eventually (if not immediately) begin the separation process.

Jovian102 Dec 2005 11:34 a.m. PST

Oh – another thought – you COULD use the new paints used on LEXAN bodies (I believe the paint is called "fascolor") on the figures because it is designed to bond with the surface AND designed to flex with the Lexan so it will not chip or flake. I haven't tried them on flexible plastics, but they worked great on GW plastics!

Augustus02 Dec 2005 11:55 a.m. PST

PAINT FLAKE IS A MYTH. Follow these four points and you should have zero trouble.

If you do the following….

First, wash them with warm soapy water. Dish soap like Joy is a good choice.

Second, replace any long spears by cutting off the tips and putting the tips onto strong wire or brass. Why should you do this? I have done it for ages. Sometimes (only sometimes) I have noticed spears are the primary points that get bent the most. However, looking at these Samurai naginata, etc. I think we both might be safe from doing this.

Third, buy PLASTIC PRIMER from Krylon. I have tested it on my figures and even when I bend them heavily, I get no paint flaking when I primer with this. THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE. This stuff works and bonds incredibly well.

Fourth, find a decent sealer. This will strengthen your paint layer. Personally, I actually don't use a full-out spray sealer. I usually use inks and I find that when you use inks, it seems as though it gives a nice seal to the paint when applied. However, you may want to get a sealer anyway. Up to you.

Coyoteh02 Dec 2005 1:23 p.m. PST

I had bad luck with the krylon primer.

Arcylic Artist's Gesso works for me. Clean the plastic well, some people even recommend giving them a mild acid bath to etch the surface.

Anyway, apply the gesso. To test I applied it on one-half of a flat base that came with some plastic figures. It's Revell soft plastic. I only covered half the base because I was lazy and also it should make it more prone to flaking.

Anyway, two coats and proper curing time (that's the key to primer, let it cure fully and you'll not go wrong) later I repeatedly bent the piece double, backwards and forwards.

No paint flaked. The only way I could get paint off was to rub vigerously with my thumb and it took the paint off the very highest points. Then again, that's what sealant is for.

whill402 Dec 2005 1:32 p.m. PST

I use Rustoleum plastic primer.

vtsaogames02 Dec 2005 2:45 p.m. PST

I use the dip to finish my plastic figures and have suffered no paint loss. A tail has broken off one of my Teutonic Knights but the paint is still there.

Dip is Polyshades Minwax, a wood floor varnish stain. The color I use is Tudor Satin, the darkest.

Some fancy painters call the dip a cheat. If so, then I cheat.

1905Adventure02 Dec 2005 9:44 p.m. PST

Here's my overkill method:

1) take sprues out of box and soak them in container full of an ammonia based cleaner or household ammonia for a couple days or just over night.

2) take them out and rinse them off. If you have a old tooth brush it doesn't hurt to give em a bit of scrubbing with some soap

3) asfter dry, remove them from the sprues

4) use a suitable method for removing mould lines
TMP link

5) prime with krylon grey primer or rustoleum plastic primer – if you go for plastic primer, make sure you get plastic primer and not just spray paint for plastic.

6) paint with acrylic paints as they remain semi-flexible

7) coat with Plasti-dip clear spray or Rust-o-leum Grip N Gaurd clear spray. Krylon also makes a matte sealer that is latex based and stays semi-flexible (check the label, they have a non-latex one as well that is rigid). I find this works almost as well.

Cleaning the sprues properly, using the right primer and the right sealer and acrylic paints are key.

Augustus02 Dec 2005 10:12 p.m. PST

Coyoteh, what happened with the Krylon plastic primer? I'd like to know, just in case I run into it?

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