billclo | 15 Dec 2021 5:21 p.m. PST |
I recently bought some resin miniature vehicles from an company in the UK that I won't name. They include some instructions as to how to prep the miniatures for painting. I washed them in warm water with Dawn dishsoap, cleaned, etc, like I normally do. Their instructions say to use an ACRYLIC spray paint to undercoat/prime them due to the resin containing some plastics for "flexibility". They also recommend a particular acrylic spray that I naturally cannot find anywhere for sale in the US (Kobra acrylic grafitti spray paints/primers). I was not able to find any spray primer that said it was acrylic either. So I tried both Tamiya grey primer, and Duplicolor automotive lacquer primer, both of which gave similarly lousy results. I've got an email out to the company asking specifically what primers I can use that I can actually get in the US, but being as they are in the UK and are undoubtedly rather busy, it may be a while before they get back to me. In the meantime, has anyone had experience with this? The resin is very porus, having lots of what look like surface pinholes; I used some Bondo glazing putty to fill them in, but when I reprimed over the Bondo, more appear. The resin is pretty much like swiss cheese, total crapola. I had the crazy idea of trying to coat the assembled vehicles in a couple of coats of Pledge floor wax (the old Future), then trying to prime over it again, but I'm not sure if the primer/paint will stick to the Future wax. Ideas to fix this? |
robert piepenbrink | 15 Dec 2021 6:12 p.m. PST |
I'd try a couple of things, and you get a full refund on my consulting fee if they don't work. 1. Not "warm" water, but boiling hot soapy water, soak overnight, rinse off with more boiling water and air dry. 2. Go to an actual paint shop, show them the instructions and see what they recommend for a primer. I've seen spray paints specifically made of adhesion to plastics, and there might be something along those lines. 3. Just once or twice I've had to spray with an "adheres to plastic" paint, and then hit it with a clear matte spray before painting. Hopefully you won't have to go that far. |
Schogun | 15 Dec 2021 6:23 p.m. PST |
The best cleaner for resin is a degreaser like Purple Power. available nationwide at places like Walmart and Home Depot. link After spraying on straight from the bottle, using a brush then rinsing, you'll find the model is squeaky clean and will take filler and primer better. Be sure to wear rubber gloves when using. Purple Power will leech all moisture from your hands and very shortly after, your hands will be super dried out. |
khanscom | 15 Dec 2021 7:11 p.m. PST |
Simple Green has been recommended for cleaning resin and styrene, and is an environmentally friendly option. One of the local IPMS members has used Westley's (?) Bleach White for resin cleaning-- some negative comments on this product as well, so take it for what it's worth. |
Virtualscratchbuilder | 15 Dec 2021 7:18 p.m. PST |
You have to be careful with boiling hot water as a cleaner because it can harm the resin by warping it and twisting it etc. |
Bunkermeister | 15 Dec 2021 7:19 p.m. PST |
Both of those are good advice, and my advice to you is do both of them, Piepenbrinks washing plan first and then the Schogun Purple Power. PP is very strong stuff and he is right about wearing gloves. Generally, I use the Rust-Oleum 2X primer paint, gray or white for resin models. Sometimes if you apply paint on too thick, or when it is too cold, or too humid it can take a long time to dry. Sometimes weeks. Put it out in the sun on a hot day and the UV will help dry it. Not good advice for December, works better in July. Oh, and I have been told that Tamiya is a synthetic lacquer paint according to their website. link So you used two lacquer paints. link This is acrylic, sold at Lowes. Mike Bunkermeister Creek Bunker Talk blog |
billclo | 15 Dec 2021 7:44 p.m. PST |
I'll go ahead and try the Purple Power to clean the vehicles, and check out the acrylic primer Bunkermeister suggested. Any good way to fill in the pinholes (there are a LOT of tiny ones), besides using Bondo glazing putty on the whole mini? |
Garand | 15 Dec 2021 7:57 p.m. PST |
Any good way to fill in the pinholes (there are a LOT of tiny ones), besides using Bondo glazing putty on the whole mini? You could try small drops of super glue applied with a pin or a bit of wire, then hit with accelerator. I used super glue as a filler in my model building hobby quite frequently. Works well. Depending on the size, you might not need to sand at all. One warning though: if you do need to sand, you can't let it sit or the superglue polymer becomes STRONGER than the resin & won't sand right. You need to do it within like 1/2 hour of application. Damon. |
Dan Cyr | 15 Dec 2021 8:43 p.m. PST |
I've prepped and cleaned resin figures from that company located in the UK and have had no issues by using very warm water and dish soap. I use a tooth brush on the figures while they are in the water, but only have them in there for a minute or two. |
Yellow Admiral | 15 Dec 2021 11:44 p.m. PST |
RE: acrylic primer You might try spray gesso: link If you have an airbrush, Vallejo makes acrylic primers in a variety of military colors that are thin enough to spray. - Ix |
billclo | 16 Dec 2021 9:02 a.m. PST |
Sorry, Yellow Admiral, no airbrush, don't have a good place to use one, and certainly not good enough provision for ventilation. |
MajorB | 16 Dec 2021 10:23 a.m. PST |
Try gesso as used by artists. |
DeRuyter | 16 Dec 2021 10:45 a.m. PST |
I have found that the Army Painter and Citadel primers work well with resin but they are quite pricey. I have also used the Rustoleum primers. I have had no trouble at least with the plant based resin I use for my printer. |
billclo | 16 Dec 2021 12:13 p.m. PST |
After looking at the Army Painter primers and paints, it appears that they are acrylic-based, so I'm going to give them a try. |
Zephyr1 | 16 Dec 2021 3:26 p.m. PST |
Gesso for primer. For the pinholes, mix up some plaster of paris (you won't need more than a spoonful) & smear it over the affected areas, smoothing the excess off down to the model's surface (leaving the holes filled.) Scrape/sand off any extra plaster while still damp or after dry. Then prime… ;-) |