"Best method of removing figures from bases?" Topic

I have a large (600 figures) collection of 40mm Napoleonics that will be heading off to a new home in the States in the New Year. As they are currently based in large groups of 6 to 12 figures using thin ply and a filler/stones texture we have decided to remove all of them from the bases for packing which will dramatically reduce weight and bulk.

My plan to to give them a 24 hour soak which should break down the basing materials to a slush and allow for each figure to be removed. Question is do any of you have any additional tips for me regarding this? Anything I could add to aid the process possibly? Obviously I don't want to do any damage but just wondering how YOU would go about this please?

For the record I put the collection together whilst living in a larger house in Spain, but since returning to the UK a year ago they have languished in the packing boxes that I drove them back home in, a 1000 mile road trip all the way up through France without a single broken bayonet. I simply no longer have the space to enjoy them so will be passing them on to a fellow 40mm enthusiast.

Any tips much appreciated, thank you.

Lee.

Pic shows dome of the British foot on the heavy thick bases!

If it's PVA or white glue, an hour soak of the bases should suffice

I am rebasing about 1000 25mm figures at the moment.

I stand them in a baking tray of tap water for at least 24 hours or even longer.

Glue and basing materials turn to mush and figures are easy to remove.

The above methods are good for figures bases with the glues mentioned. Otherwise, you can have some luck putting figures in the freezer for a bit and then using a hobby knife to "break" the glue bond (works for Cyanoacrylatesglue types). I use a hobby knife a lot to rebase, but it does depend upon what the figures were glued with. If you ever encounter figures that someone affixed with 2-part epoxy, all bets are off.

Start with HOT water. PVA will 'melt' in 30-60 minutes. Soak overnight is also good.

The key thing is the base not the glue – with organic bases like card, beermat, mdf and thin ply soaking works well.

I'm with Jim Duncan – 24 hours minimum, and resist the temptation to try prising them off earlier. Put the figures on newspaper to dry and then file off any glue residue by rubbing them on a large flat engineering file.

I agree with the above, having had to do the same with some 'thick base' minis I bought a few years ago

Now, when you get figs mounted on plastic bases glued on with plastic glue – that is a horse of a different (and much tougher) colour!

They would be much safer in transit just as they are (maybe remove the stones I guess). These figures are valuable and in superb condition. Is the base removal really going to save that much postage (which will be astronomical whatever, regardless of weight)?

I would go to the other extreme. I would glue the existing bases to the base of a shallow stout cardboard box (we get those arriving every day at our door right now) and pack in with bubble wrap (same applies re the current supply).

Then just hope the Customs folk do not get curious. They can destroy anything and add a huge tax on imports, unless convinced no money changed hands.

I do love to see 40mm figures painted to this standard, but also have to consider the space required. She Who Must Be Obeyed tells me so anyway.

What deadhead said, but I would put a layer of bubble wrap along the sides and top of the box and then fill the rest of the box with packing "beans".

I wouldn't attempt to remove them, if it's ply. Ply doesn't absorb water, in the same manner as does MDF, and I've always struggled to debase minis on ply, especially if superglue was used (in which case it's nigh on impossible!). Much better to post them based.

I'd just ship as is, by sea.
If you're giving them away, then any shipping cost is as nothing compared to the value of the figs. Trying to get them off the bases will probably result in wreckage, and besides, they look great as is.

My two cents.

Also, I wish I was your friend! :)

Your figures and basing look fantastic!! Which ever way you decide to I hope it turns out well.

Why not leave them based and ask the buyer to pay the extra shipping charge, it can't be much more. I would rather go to the dentist than rebase 600 figures.

I usually go with an application of BF&I.

I have used several of these methods with success, but if all else fails I cut most of the old base away with side cutters and remove the rest with a belt or disk sander.

What Warwizard and Stalkey said, those bases are too nice to trash.

I've gotten based stuff from China without so much as a bent bayonet. They tend to pack everything into a foam block so it doesn't move.
Never paid a cent to customs either.

A huge THANK YOU to everyone who took the trouble to reply and offer advice, you have given me a lot to think about!

My buyer and I have been trying to work out the best way to get these figures safely over to the States from the Uk. Initially they were going to go on the bases but it was me who had anxiety about broken heads and bayonets so suggested removal from the bases as my buyer plans to re-base them onto thin bases anyway to match his current collection. Postage cost is less of an issue to him given that the price is in the thousands of pounds anyway, we know it's going to be hefty.

As said I put this collection together whilst living in Spain (thus the Peninsular theme). I used soluble PVA mixed with filler for the main texture so I know that soaking for 24 hours will break that down.For most the bases I used thin 5mm 'ply' sheet cut by hand then doubled up to 10mm. This was purchased from one those ubiquitous Spanish 'Merca China' stores so is poor quality and easily cut with a hobby knife and indeed 'snapped'. I think my main issue is the small blob of super glue used to affix the figures, but again the quality of the so called 'super' glue from those stores was very poor, nothing like the quality of branded versions.

Given the above input I'm going to think about it and maybe do a test soak to see how things go…. I'll let you know :)

Thanks again,

Lee.

PS: For those who commented on the quality of the figures here are a few more pictures, I should point out that many were professionally painted whilst others by myself, the French 2nd hussars are an example of the pro paint job and the 13th Cuirassiers in their brown coats for service in Spain are by me!

Really nice collection. I suppose the buyer's thinking is he needs consistency of thickness and look, so he has to discard the bases, so it's rational not to waste money posting something that will be thrown away.

I suspect the constant upward creep of figure scales across the board is because as the owners age they can't see them any more – so 10mm become 12mm, 15mm become 18mm, 25mm become 28/30mm and presumably 30mm are now 40mm…I think 40s look fantastic and these are really sweet. But in boxes nobody appreciates them. You're doing the right thing I think.

I have had success getting superglue off by putting the item in the freezer overnight. It then levers off with either a strong blade like a Stanley knife, or one of these, which even gets dried superglue off a cutting mat

link

You can use it on the hob afterwards :-)

You can also buy superglue debonder, which I can testify does work, because the wife once superglued herself to Thomas the Tank Engine and this stuff got it off with no damage either to her or, more importantly, to Thomas the Tank Engine:

link

I use a Dremel, rotary tool, to cut off bases. I rebase a lot of 15mm plastic FOW miniatures on to singles. I use a fine bit that can cut away wood and plastic. For the plastic bases I start from the bottom of the base and approximately the center of where the miniature is based and just cut the plastic off. Works great for plastic miniatures glued down with plastic cement.

They also have various size cutting disks for the Dremel that could be very useful to cut the wood. I like using this tool, as opposed to a knife, because I don't have to put any real pressure on the miniature. As long as you are deliberate and take your time, damage to the miniatures can be minimal.

Good luck!

I thought shipping unbased had already been decided. I agree that shipping them based with suitable cushioning is probably the best way to get them to their destination safely even if they'll be rebased on arrival. Easier to wrap and cushion those big blocks than to adequately secure all the individuals.

A good way to ship figures, if based, is to fil the box to the brim with puffed rice. To determine if it is full enough, put the lid on the box and shake it. If there is no movement, you can seal the box for shipment. Cheap and easy.

Puffed rice is genius………….far better than polystyrene beads, which work out expensive. My next Prussians will travel thus and @thomaspicton will have a ready made breakfast too!

Glad the tip helped. I operated a small order business in the hobby and I packed more boxes like that than I can remember