"Applying LIttle Big Men Shield Decals?" Topic

I'm about to put a bunch of the LMB shield decals on my vikings and was wondering if I should do this before, or after applying dull-cote?

Thanks

Decals should almost always be applied to a gloss surface. I'd give the shields a coat of Future, let it dry, apply the decals, then hit the entire mini with Dull-Cote.

If you apply a decal over a flat (matt) surface, microscopic air bubbles get trapped under the decals, resulting in "silvering", visible in the clear areas of the decals.

I put mine on a matt white finish and then varnish with matt varnish. They look great but I still lose about 1 in 4 transfers as they have to be done quite carefully.

legatushedlius, why are you losing them? Are you using brush on or spray on matt varnish? Have you learned any tricks to prevent losing decals? Anyone else, please chime in. Thanks in advance.

I'm thinking about brushing on clear fingernail polish before dull coting them …

Haven't lost any. I just apply them as the instructions say, and as per previous threads here.

They go on over matte or gloss finishes. I coat my figures with a clear acrylic protective coat before spraying with Dullcote.

Allen

I lose them because I am clumsy basically. Nothing chemical based. I find that they can get folded at the corner (I am doing oblong scuta decals) and once they are stuck you can't move them around like water slide transfers. So basically my problem has been positioning them exactly right in the first place and, initially not rubbing hard enough so only part sticks and then the other bits stretch. I also found that when cutting the shield boss section out (its not stamped out like the round ones)that the decal can start to come off the front film early.

I am getting the hang of them though and they are worth it!

Ah, my mistake, I didn't realize they were rub-ons. In that case, as Justin says, I doubt that it matters whether the surface is gloss or matt.

Here's how I apply rub-ons: First, cut *exactly* around the rub-on with a brand-new #11 X-Acto blade. Don't use a dull blade. Then position the decal and tape it into position with thin strips of clear matt Scotch tape. Then rub it down with a ball-point pen. The fine point of the pen gets into all the nooks and crannies of the rub-on, the ink tells me where I have and haven't rubbed, and the tape keeps everything securely in place until I'm done. Then *carefully* remove the tape and backing paper. If any parts of the rub-on aren't fully stuck down, put a clear piece of the backing paper over the rub-on and rub it down again. When the decal is fully seated, spray your Dull-Cote. You should lose a lot fewer rub-ons if you follow some of these procedures.

I'd be interested in reading any hints or tips that others have, too.

Jpattern2,

They are not rub ons as you are thinking! They have a sticky backing to them, so you rub down and then peel off the protective top layer.
I include instruction sheets in the packet of transfers for applying them.
They will go on most surfaces so no need to varnish the surface before application. I would varnish afterwards however to keep them in place. Another thing to be aware of is to make sure there is no casting powder residue left on the surface of the shield! This may cause paint to come away with the sticky transfer as the paint has not adhered to the metal properley because it is not clean! This happens rareley but if it happens this is the reason!
There have been plenty of threads on this and a few people have application techniques on their websites, but if anyone has a problem or need advice always feel free to send me a mail at Steve@littlebigmenstudios.co.uk and I will be happy to help out .

Steve (Little Big Men Studios)

Hello,

Sorry to resurrect a dead thread, but I am having some troubles applying some LBM shield decals. I'm following all the instructions, but I just can't get the decal to conform to the surface. This is to Macedonian Phalanx shields in 15mm, and the shield is "Domed" so I am pressing while applying water, but the shield just won't stick to the surface (yes I have glosscoated it). It just seems like the plastic decal layer is way too thick and stiff and will never bend and conform to the shield surface. I've never seen a decal material this thick and stiff, or will not soften after being soaked. I've even tried DecalSol to try and soften it. Has there been a change to the design of LBM transfers over the past few years? Or did I somehow get a bad batch?

Try scoring the back of the transfer before you apply it. Say cuts on the diagnonals. Not too hard as you may cut through. I find this works well in 28mm, a bit more fiddily in 15mm!