Cormac Mac Art | 09 Jul 2020 6:40 p.m. PST |
Has anyone used Minwax Polyurethane to seal minis? I've been trying to find something more durable than the spray can sealers. I think the Satin finish would be a bit too shiny, but a coat of Testors Dullcoat over the top would cut the shine. Here is a link to the product in question: link |
Dervel | 09 Jul 2020 7:26 p.m. PST |
I have used the colored versions to do a shade and finish. It works fine, but I used a paper towel to wick off the excess. Let it dry a couple days (at least overnight), hit it with dullcoat works fine. |
Desert Fox | 09 Jul 2020 7:33 p.m. PST |
Do people use it straight out of the bottle, or do you recommend thinning it? |
Dn Jackson | 09 Jul 2020 10:42 p.m. PST |
I use it straight out of the can. |
Yellow Admiral | 10 Jul 2020 2:00 a.m. PST |
This was just discussed a few weeks ago: TMP link |
PzGeneral | 10 Jul 2020 4:40 a.m. PST |
I'm with Dervel, My process exactly. And what Dn Jackson said too… |
Col Durnford | 10 Jul 2020 5:49 a.m. PST |
I also take it straight out of the can and use a small pot of mineral spirits to dip the brush in from time to time. I also dump the can into several smaller containers filled to the top and topped off with more mineral spirits to keep it from going bad. It seem to me that the more air in the container the quicker it thickens. I still find that I toss out more than I use. There is one last thing I would like to touch on. I have had some bad reactions between paint – sealant – dullcoat. The paint crinkles up after the dullcoat is applied. My solution involves a little extra work. After the figure is painted and dried, I coat with future followed by the poly and then a second coat of future. A day at least between coats. The final spray seal in in two stages as well. First a coat of water based matt and then the dullcoat. |
Gray Bear | 10 Jul 2020 6:40 a.m. PST |
I've too-coated figures for years with Minwax satin polyurethane spray. A few light coats in succession while the prior coat is still tacky (per the manufacturer recommendation). The figures are left to dry a full day or more and then I follow-up with a few light coats of Dulcoat. Never experienced any issues with this process. I am in Arizona and the humidity is low so that would be the only issue to monitor. Good luck. |
DyeHard | 10 Jul 2020 10:08 a.m. PST |
I have been doing this for some 20 years. link
Brush on either the tinted or clear formula. I have mainly used the solvent based versions using mineral spirits as a thinner if needed (and clean up). I know I played around with the water based version, but never used to any great extent. I sometime bring down the shine with a coat of Dulcoat or other brand spray matte finish. As noted above allow the MinWax a good long time to fully cure. I usually wait a week! |
dapeters | 10 Jul 2020 3:21 p.m. PST |
LOL you been here for over ten years how have you missed this? |
Cormac Mac Art | 11 Jul 2020 10:11 a.m. PST |
Thanks for all the advice. @dapeters – I've been out of painting miniatures for a long time and have finally found the time and space to take it back up. |
Sgt Slag | 11 Jul 2020 6:48 p.m. PST |
You can bake your mini's in a slow cooker/crock pot, set on Low heat (170 F), for 30 minutes, to fully cure it, without damaging the figures, or the paint. Let them cool for 20 minutes, then apply a clear, dull coat. By using a slow cooker, in your garage, you avoid flammable fumes, as well as stinking up your home. I used my electric oven, for a couple of years, without issue, but I was lucky. Now I use a slow cooker, without risk. Works superbly! My mini's are table-ready in a few hours after applying The Dip, and a finishing dull coat. Cheers! |
Yellow Admiral | 11 Jul 2020 9:38 p.m. PST |
Not recommended for plastic miniatures. This is an experiment I've meant to try for many years. Do you line the crock pot with anything, or set the miniatures straight on the floor? - Ix |
Sgt Slag | 11 Jul 2020 10:08 p.m. PST |
Thermal plastics melt at 300-400 degrees Fahrenheit. The "Low" temperature setting is only 170 F, so no ill effects on injection molded mini's -- they may soften, but they will not melt, or deform. Been heating up plastic, and Model Medal (Prince August figures I cast myself), mini's this way for over 22 years, with zero issues. I recommend/use aluminum foil as a liner, to catch any Minwax run-off. I also recommend dedicating a slow cooker to mini's only, to avoid potential food issues. Cheers! |
Asteroid X | 11 Jul 2020 11:44 p.m. PST |
That's awesome advice, Sarge! Thank you for sharing!!! |
Sgt Slag | 14 Jul 2020 12:18 p.m. PST |
Depending upon what you plan on applying The Dip, to, a small, round Crock Pot slow cooker may do the job for you: cost is <$10, at Wal-Mart. Since I sometimes Dip larger terrain pieces, as well as Dip'ing large groups of mini's at a time, I bought a 4-quart model, for around $30. USD The extra-large capacity is fantastic for my assembly-line style of painting, and Dip'ing my mini's. I can load up 30+ mini's at a time, curing the Minwax en' mass. Cheers! |