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"Sarissa Precision" Topic

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Whitestreak28 Jun 2020 8:03 p.m. PST

I ordered a set from Sarissa this weekend, as I've finally decided to get a good looking Old West setting, and the pictures of the items are very nice.

Now, I have a question, since I have never worked with MDF buildings:

What's the best product for painting them?

I expect this simple question will result in several preferences, but I think I should probably purchase the items needed before the set arrives from the UK.


dampfpanzerwagon Fezian29 Jun 2020 5:13 a.m. PST

There are a lot of guides on the internet, but I would suggest a sealing coat or basecoat of spray paint to seal the MDF before you start – then acrylics for the main colours and finish.

I've always found Sarissa to be very kits with great engineering. Good luck.


Rich Bliss Supporting Member of TMP29 Jun 2020 6:37 a.m. PST

I use a lot of Sarissa products. In general, I get my best results priming with brush on Gesso, letting dry at least 24 hours and proceeding with Acrylic paint and artist markers.

Thomas O29 Jun 2020 7:01 a.m. PST

Sarissa has some free painting guides on their web site. May not be for exactly the type of buildings you have, but will give you a good starting point. I typically just use craft paints, I water them down a bit sot hey don't clog up the details.

Dukewilliam Supporting Member of TMP29 Jun 2020 8:18 a.m. PST

You know, on some of my SP buildings I didn't undercoat at all and I really like the kind of faded look it gives the buildings, especially in old Europe but YMMV. In other areas I applied extra coats to further give it that faded look.

I love SP, BTW, can't go wrong with their products.


Andrew Beasley29 Jun 2020 11:44 a.m. PST

I like an undercoat as I find it helps seal the edges and hide the laser burns.

Most of my buildings have additions in different colours so the undercoat helps tone the differences down and, if any glue has leaked, gives matte surface for painting.

Talking of glue – the best I have found is Gorilla WOOD GLUE. Do not use the foaming one but find the wood glue variety as a very very thin bead holds well.

Other useful bits are clothes pegs for holding bits, elastic bands and Lego for supporting bits while they dry if needed. A small school set-square does not hurt to check angles and always use a sharp blade to cut the supports out and cut from both sides to stop splitting. I then use a nail file to sand the remaining nub.

Simplest way I have found to remove the ash is a slightly damp cloth rubbed over the edges – expect messy hands and an odd smell till you get used to it…

Whitestreak30 Jun 2020 10:02 p.m. PST

Thanks for the advice and recommendations!

When I get the set and start working through them, I'll start posting some pictures

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