| tigrifsgt | 07 Feb 2020 1:17 p.m. PST |
I am having a heck of a time glueing arms on the Perry ACW figures. I can't get the arms to line up on the fireing arms. It seems as though the arm without the hand won't ever line with the hand on the rifle. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I already ruined two figures and don't want any more ruined. Any way that you guys do this would help. I'm sure not everyone does it the same way. Thanks in advance. TIG |
| tigrifsgt | 07 Feb 2020 1:18 p.m. PST |
I am having a heck of a time glueing arms on the Perry ACW figures. I can't get the arms to line up on the fireing arms. It seems as though the arm without the hand won't ever line with the hand on the rifle. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I already ruined two figures and don't want any more ruined. Any way that you guys do this would help. I'm sure not everyone does it the same way. Thanks in advance. TIG |
| Glengarry5 | 07 Feb 2020 1:41 p.m. PST |
Not every hand will line up with every arm, you have to check first with a dry run. |
 Herkybird  | 07 Feb 2020 1:45 p.m. PST |
I use a brush on Polystyrene cement, and stick the arm to the rifle before attaching it to the figure.
If I do this within 4-5 minutes, there is some 'give'in the glued arms, allowing a good alignment on the shoulders. Alternatively, I stick one arm on, usually the right with the rifle, then stick the handless arm on. Once again, I have some 'give' and use my finger and thumb to mould the exact position I want. Usually, Perry models have arms that work well together opposite each other on the sprue. I hope this is helpful?! |
| Eumelus | 07 Feb 2020 3:25 p.m. PST |
Concur with Glengarry5 about testing before gluing. Also, I don't know what adhesive you're using but I've had great success with Testor's model cement out of the tube (not the liquid type). It has just enough stretchiness to make a quick re-positioning possible, right before it sets solid. |
| tigrifsgt | 07 Feb 2020 3:26 p.m. PST |
I also had issues with the kneeling figure. I went on line and saw that the right knee doesn't touch when you put it together properly. TIG |
| coopman | 08 Feb 2020 9:45 a.m. PST |
I use Testor's Model Masters 8872C glue for my Perry minis. Really happy with it. |
| Brian Smaller | 08 Feb 2020 3:16 p.m. PST |
I have been assembling US skirmishing inf in sack coats as well. Have not had too much trouble with the firing arms but they are all very fiddly to be honest. For glue I use Tamiya plastic cement. Gives a bit of work time. I have noticed that I often end up with a bit of a gap on one arm or the other but I fill it with a bit of glue and barely noticeable once primed – if at all.
One thing I did with the second regiment I did using those figures was trim the bayonets off. So much better. |
 Wolfshanza | 09 Feb 2020 11:24 p.m. PST |
They are a bit fiddly :( I use Plastruct liquid. Gives me time to fiddle and align. Building a USCT unit, right now, using spare Perry Zulu heads. |
| Trajanus | 10 Feb 2020 12:44 p.m. PST |
Perry actually make metal heads for USCT to do conversions. Or at least the used to. Check their website. |
| tigrifsgt | 13 Feb 2020 12:21 p.m. PST |
Thanks for all the help. I'll try each way and see which works out best for me. TIG |
completes his initial Union force in 1:72nd scale.
