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"Early renaissance 'base coats'?" Topic


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Comments or corrections?

Charlie19 Dec 2019 3:02 p.m. PST

The style of coat worn by the archer in this image, which I believe was known as a 'base coat'….

picture

I've always associated them with 'Tudor' fashion, early 1500s. But were they around in the late 15th century? When did they first appear?

In particular I'm talking about the distinctive square neckline.

Condottiere21 Dec 2019 10:43 a.m. PST

I know Italians were wearing them in the mid to late 15th century, or a similar base coat. I recall reading (somewhere quite some time ago) that the French picked up the "fashion" from the Italians, then the English may have adopted it (or some form of it) from the French. But don't quote me on this. laugh

Charlie21 Dec 2019 11:08 a.m. PST

Interesting. I've been able to find no information on it at all…

The 'coats' that were around in let's say the WOTR period differ in that they had collars, and I believe were shorter. These 'base coats' have open square necklines, and seem to perhaps be longer, knee-length? To be honest they look much more like dresses.

Daniel S21 Dec 2019 12:37 p.m. PST

The period name in english was simply "Jackets" spelled in a variety of ways. Could have a full sleeve or the 'demy sleve" seen in McBrides image. Could be short or have the 'basys' (bases) of the long version.

In artwork these jackets seem to appear about 1510 in large numbers both in French and English artwork. We also see related garments in German artwork though it is at times hard to make out the shape of the neckline due to the coats being worn open. It's around the same time we see the square neckline become part of the wams worn by both Landsknecht and Reislaufer.

I suspect that artwork was a bit slow in depicting changes so the style could well have become popular a bit earlier than 1510 but a quick look at my collection of period artwork does not turn up examples of it in 1500-1505

Charlie21 Dec 2019 1:32 p.m. PST

Interesting, thanks Daniel.

The reason I ask is I'm thinking about some minor conversions on some 'early renaissance' figures to fit into my later 15th century collection (1480s-1490s). The one item that dates them in the early 16th century is this style of coat.
1 – Should I try and sculpt a collar, in place of the square neckline?
2 – Is knee-length too long for the late 15th century?

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