"Flat-Pack Terrain?" Topic
11 Posts
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robert piepenbrink | 30 Sep 2019 1:08 p.m. PST |
Deep reflection has convinced me that I don't have enough indoor SF terrain for my 28mm forces. I need at least prole quarters--something like a level of Peachtrees from DREDD--and a cantina or possibly the Zocolo, a cell block to spring prisoners from, and arguably a headquarters and/or throne room. But even shallow reflection tells me I have storage space problems already. It seems to me the solution is PDF terrain on foam core with "H" and "L" shaped splices. But is it really foam core I want? How high the walls? And where do I find the splices or what do I make them from? The collective wisdom of TMP is solicited. |
JimDuncanUK | 30 Sep 2019 2:16 p.m. PST |
Necromunda walls are a possibility. |
Dentatus | 30 Sep 2019 2:39 p.m. PST |
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Ragbones | 30 Sep 2019 3:00 p.m. PST |
Dentatus, have you seen or played a game with the Battle Systems scenery? I've been thinking about getting a set but don't know anyone who has played on it. Looks like a relatively inexpensive and fast way for me to get something for my Colonial Marines and Aliens to fight over. |
Your Kidding | 30 Sep 2019 6:51 p.m. PST |
There are gobs of 28mm ultra future stuff. Plastcraft, Zen terrain, death ray designs, Infinity the game also sells cardboard terrain packs and the newest has HDF 3mm. I mix and match all three. Good luck. |
Zephyr1 | 30 Sep 2019 8:12 p.m. PST |
Self-stick floor tiles (leave the backing on. ;-) Easy to score and cut/break into the shapes you need (black wash the scoring to bring out the lines if you measure in squares.) For walls, make a small number you can set up & remove as needed instead of trying to wall the entire setup (I have a future dungeon project I'm going to do this with.) Walls only need to be about 1/2 inch taller than your figures. Should store flat easily in a small box… ;-) |
ninthdoc | 30 Sep 2019 8:40 p.m. PST |
I'm generally not a fan of cardboard terrain, but I really like this gentleman's review of it. It almost convinced me to purchase some of it. youtu.be/idRzoeGF6ZM |
Norrins | 01 Oct 2019 6:15 a.m. PST |
I bought the Battlesystems scenery from their first kickstarter. Currently got it set up for use in a variety of games and took some pictures for you.
More pictures here – link |
Legion 4 | 01 Oct 2019 7:06 a.m. PST |
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Dentatus | 01 Oct 2019 6:38 p.m. PST |
The strictly honest answer is: Not Yet. Heard so many good things though, I just ordered Battle Systems scenics to supplement the fair amount of PlastCraft Colored buildings I already have for cyberpunk/Hardwired games. I also backed their recent Fantasy Village Kickstarter. So I would say I have high consumer confidence. |
Sgt Slag | 02 Oct 2019 5:53 a.m. PST |
I would recommend 2-D terrain, PDF files. Take a look at a similar dungeon terrain inquiry I responded to (TMP link did not work properly, so copying/pasting relevant responses here): I use printable, 2-D dungeon artwork, printing it on regular paper, then attaching it to peel-n-stick vinyl floor tiles. I covered a piece of 2-foot-square plywood, with black felt. I use the plywood as a base, laying the vinyl pieces on top of it. The square-cut corners of the vinyl pieces keep them from drifting too much. The vinyl pieces are also quite hefty. It works well enough for me. Here is my blog, with photo's, scroll down to #4, around 40% down from the top of the page. The felt-covered plywood is not shown, as I came up with using that, after I did the original photo's for the blog. I wrapped the black felt over the edges of the plywood, then I stapled them to the bottom, with the felt gently stretched taut. Make several, keep them at hand, and deploy them onto your table, as needed. The dungeon pieces will not slide easily, once placed (the rough side of the MDF, see below, will not slide at all…).
Caveats to using vinyl: it is heavy! If you stack the pieces in a container, make sure you check its weight, to make sure it is not too heavy to lift and carry around! It curls, over time: simply flex it back into shape, before placing upon the tabletop. Covering the printed pages with Clear Contact Paper (translucent vinyl, really; for lining cupboards) makes it easy to mark with Crayola Markers (will wash off, months after being applied, without leaving a mark!). Durable, heavy, and inexpensive, at around $0.59 USD USD/square foot tile, at your local DIY stores -- get the thin, cheap tiles, without worrying about the pattern, which will be down, out of sight. The vinyl tiles cut easily, with utility scissors. The MDF, see below, needs to be cut with a Coping Saw, Jig Saw, Band Saw, or a Table Saw… Alternatively, print them out on full-sheet label paper (Amazon product), apply them to the smooth side of the MDF, and then the rough side of the MDF will not slide so easily. You can use a felt base, as previously described, or use a large piece of fabric, as the rough side of the MDF will not slide easily across it. Cheers! The 2-D terrain has distinct advantages: no upright walls to interfere with miniature's arms and weapons which extend beyond their base; easy to store, easy to transport (adhering it to vinyl floor tiles adds considerable weight to the pieces, when you have a large quantity of them…); easy to deploy; inexpensive; easy to make -- print, adhere to vinyl floor tile, cover with Clear Contact Paper, cut apart, and ready to game with! If the white edges of the cut tiles are too noticeable, take a black Sharpie pen, and blacken the edges of the tile pieces. They will virtually disappear. One of the best parts to using 2-D printed terrain, is that there is ZERO painting required! Cheers! |
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