"Using cork," Topic
5 Posts
All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.
In order to respect possible copyright issues, when quoting from a book or article, please quote no more than three paragraphs.
For more information, see the TMP FAQ.
Back to the WWII Discussion Message Board Back to the Terrain and Scenics Message Board
Areas of InterestGeneral World War Two on the Land
Featured Hobby News Article
Featured Link
Featured Ruleset
Featured Showcase ArticleA puzzling item in the infantry set.
Featured Profile Article
Featured Book Review
Featured Movie Review
|
DougEagle | 05 Sep 2019 8:16 p.m. PST |
I'm in the process of making desert terrain for WWII North Africa on a 3'x3' 2" thick styrofoam board. The hills I'm looking at making are going to be stepped. Seeing as how I have never used cork before I do have a question regarding it's use. If I cut the cork, glue it to the styrofoam sheet then flock it and paint it, will the cork hill peel off or warp? Would it be wise to use a caulk around the edges before flocking/painting? Thanks, Doug |
Anton Ryzbak | 05 Sep 2019 8:52 p.m. PST |
I would simply use thinner sheets of foam, but you should get good results by using a decent quality wood glue (I'm a big fan of Titebond Carpenter's Glue). Styrofoam has an open enough surface that the glue will bond well and the cork will adhere nicely. Use sparingly! Just remember to place weights on the cork as it dries to prevent uneven moisture absorption from causing the cork to swell and "bubble". Some water-based latex caulk at the edges once everything has dried might reduce the chance of the cork chipping. I have used had great success painting the entire surface with housepaint, it seals and protects the foam as well as the cork. Foamcore may be a good substitute for cork (and cheaper) If you are interested check out my many terrain and building projects here link |
DougEagle | 07 Sep 2019 8:05 a.m. PST |
Only thinnest sheets of foam I can find are 1/2". I do have some scrap pieces that I did make a few hills out of, but I found that they were just too 'big' essentially for the usage. I have thought about using foam core instead of cork as I have plenty. It was just a thought about using the cork is all. Should have mentioned that the battlefield is for 6mm. Thanks for your input. |
Anton Ryzbak | 07 Sep 2019 9:21 a.m. PST |
DougEagle, In 6mm I would have to stick with cork or the thinner samples of foamcore (which is also prone to warping when painted). I have learned to make a small test sample to see how it looks before embarking on a larger project, this has saved me from a couple of disasters. If you can get cork in thinner sections than foamcore that is probably the way to go as you will be able to produce more refined gradients. The idea of caulking the edge would reduce the unnatural look of the foamcore steps. My experiences with cork show that it is difficult to sand, but I went all-in on blue foam a while back so I really haven't worked much with it. If you are considering adding texture to the surface I would recommend Chinchilla Dust (a volcanic powder that is sold a Pet Supply stores) it is much finer than normal sand and will add a touch of texture without overpowering the 1/300 scale models. Best of Luck on your project, keep everybody posted on your progress |
Andy ONeill | 07 Sep 2019 10:17 a.m. PST |
I used to eat at least one pizza a week. Not sure if this us still the case but supermarket pizza used to come with a thin sheet of extruded polystyrene under it. I still have a collection of these for layered hills. |
|