 Flashman14  | 23 Aug 2019 7:53 a.m. PST |
I have a wolf on a metal washer that needs removing. Tried freezer to hot water, tried getting a blade underneath, and now did a couple minutes in acetone and nothing is working. Any ideas? |
 Editor in Chief Bill   | 23 Aug 2019 7:57 a.m. PST |
Grind off the washer?  |
| TheOtherOneFromTableScape | 23 Aug 2019 8:04 a.m. PST |
Gorilla make a number of different adhesives products. So telling us what kind of glue you used, rather than the brand, would help us to offer advice. They appear to make wood, clear, epoxy, contact, original (polyurethane), and various types of super. |
| Flashman14 | 23 Aug 2019 8:42 a.m. PST |
Must be original super glue formula. |
| TheOtherOneFromTableScape | 23 Aug 2019 11:35 a.m. PST |
If it was brown when it was applied, turned pale yellow and expanded slightly when it set, then its original. I don't think there is a solvent for cured polyurethane, so mechanical separating or heat. Both might damage the figure, and the glue might give off hydrogen cyanide if it burns… I suspect that grinding is likely to damage the figure – the washer is probably harder than the figure – and generate a lot of heat. Persevering with trying to prise it off would be my method. If its original Gorilla glue it isn't that strong when used on nonporous surfaces. What about cutting the edges of the washer to match the base dimensions and accepting it is going to be a bit taller? |
 Jeff Ewing | 23 Aug 2019 1:56 p.m. PST |
I agree with the above. I guess I might try clamping the washer in a vise and trying to saw between the figure base and the washer. Even tolulene, one of the harshest solvents you can buy in the hardware store, apparently won't do the trick. |
| DyeHard | 23 Aug 2019 2:18 p.m. PST |
Polyurethane is a difficult one. The web may advice Acetone, if you try this get it from a hardware store, not the drug store that is just water with acetone. You may also find denatured alcohol, I am even more skeptical, also find it with no water. Now, mineral spirits or methyline chloride seem more likely, but the danger goes up. There is one product I could find Roberts 5505:
link This has:
Benzyl Alcohol(2-butoxyethoxy), ethanol, Aliphatic dibasic esters. Could give it a try? We are talking about breaking a plastic polymer here. Polyurethane does not melt with heat, but it does burn. The foam will breakdown at about 300F (180 C). But does not flask into flame until quite a bit higher, like 480 F. Try a soldering iron, or hot plate to heat the washer, and start to wiggle it free. |
| TheOtherOneFromTableScape | 24 Aug 2019 3:44 a.m. PST |
The problem with the adhesive removal product is that it has to come into contact with the cured adhesive. It's really about removing spills or stuff that has oozed out. You would have to get it between the washer and the figure base. Now if you could do that…then you would have removed the washer! |
| Flashman14 | 24 Aug 2019 4:33 a.m. PST |
I glue with an eye towards permanence so I think I may be SOL here. |
| Walking Sailor | 25 Aug 2019 4:47 p.m. PST |
Clamp the washer in a vise, and use a razor saw hard against the washer. link |
| Zephyr1 | 25 Aug 2019 10:18 p.m. PST |
I'd soak it in rubbing alcohol for a fews days/a week (in a sealed container.) This will also remove your paint job.
Please let us know what work(ed)… ;-) |
| Volstagg Vanir | 25 Aug 2019 11:01 p.m. PST |
Heat gently (boiling water),
and then place the washer on a piece of Dry Ice …? I would think there would be enough play there to make a difference
(4.48-7.28%)
Might take a couple back-and-forths,
but I suspect that would do it.
link
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