I've been using paper terrain pieces since Denny Unger debuted his original Castleworks product in the early 2000's. I own three different castle sets, around two dozen various fantasy/medieval building models, and two different siege engine sets.
The traditional technique is to print them on 110# card stock, but I find this top to be too flimsy to withstand more than 1-2 gaming sessions. Other folks use their card stock models for years without issues.
I switched to printing on full-sheet label paper (peel-n-stick, 8.5" x 11" sheets). I cut them out, peel and stick them to 3mm thick cardboard meant for backing custom framed posters and photos. I then cut out the cardboard, assemble the pieces, blacken the edges with a Sharpie marker, and base them, if needed.
This approach is much more cumbersome, but the finished models are superbly durable, and heavy! They will not blow over easily, like flimsy card stock.
I've made castle wall sections, towers, gatehouses, and siege towers, using this technique. They are fantastic! And… No painting! They look really good, they're durable, and they assemble sooo much faster than traditional types of models.
Here is a link to a photo showing a city wall section, with a siege tower. Both were made by the described method. The wall sections match up with the towers, and the gatehouse, at 90-degree angles only, as built/designed, but you can certainly modify them to meet at 45-degree angles, if desired/needed.
For the battering ram models (see album link, below), I printed the shaft artwork, and then I applied it to a wooden dowel cut to length. I applied the artistic ramming head on 3mm cardboard, cut and assembled it, per the instructions. Then I glued this to the end of the texture-wrapped wooden dowel. The dowel is suspended using thick thread, within the ram housing. The smaller battering ram, with the skeleton crew, is pure card stock, no 3mm cardboard. It is much lighter, and much more delicate, but still serviceable.
I mount the engines on 4"-square pieces of MDF. The bases are then painted with PVA Glue, in random patterns, applying brown sand, then when that is dry, I paint the bare portions with more PVA Glue, and apply a mixture of three different green sands, and model RR ballast mix. This makes the base look decent, quickly, easily, and cheaply. Here is a link to an album showing them in stages of construction, and use within a game. The one photo of the gatehouse, shows how I used a bead of Hot Glue to reinforce the top level of the gatehouse, to the upright panels. You can see the shiny Hot Glue in the seams. That is not required, but I wanted it to be extra-sturdy, and strong. It is not terribly obvious in games.
The square wooden dowels in the corners of the towers, wall sections, and gatehouse, are helpful in preventing warping, as well as squaring the corners. I also cut balsa sections of these square dowels, and glued them across the middle sections of long walls, to keep them from warping, as 3mm cardboard is want to do. It also makes them that much stronger, which is a side benefit.
My "paper" terrain is heavy duty, and it will last me for many, many years, as long as I do not get them wet!
Paper terrain is a splendid thing. You can use it as a base to build upon, or you can go the traditional route. Up to you. Cheers!
