TSD101 | 19 May 2019 3:18 a.m. PST |
What type of saw would be best for cutting ones own bases out of mdf, expanded pvc sheets, and very thin sheet metal? Scroll saw? Band saw? I would like to be able to cut accurate squares and rectangles out of these materials, but the ability to do more circular and irregular patterns for terrain piece bases would be a huge plus. I'd like the price to be reasonable ($80-$120 range) but I'd be willing to spend a tad more for quality. Does anyone have any recommendations on a specific brand or model? |
Flashman14 | 19 May 2019 3:43 a.m. PST |
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ochoin | 19 May 2019 5:24 a.m. PST |
A bit more expensive but pin point accuracy & think about the possibilities: link |
Dervel | 19 May 2019 5:30 a.m. PST |
I would not recommend either for a lot square cuts, but if you are going to attempt it you need one with a guide arm. Also $120 USD is really low for a decent band saw, probably your best bet is something like this… link The blades on scroll and band saws tend to flex, that is why they are not the best for square cuts, but if you have a guide and don't force the stock they can do it. It also depends on the minimum size you want to cut. Notice the guide is not that close to the blade. So you may need to make a custom slide tray to support the stock. |
Wackmole9 | 19 May 2019 5:31 a.m. PST |
hi it a little more expensive but the rockwell bladerunner link |
Florida Tory | 19 May 2019 6:44 a.m. PST |
Micro Mark offers several power saws made particularly for hobby applications. micromark.com link I've used an earlier version of their 2" mini table saw for about 30 years for cutting bases. link Rick |
Aethelflaeda was framed | 19 May 2019 8:08 a.m. PST |
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Waco Joe | 19 May 2019 8:33 a.m. PST |
I second the Rockwell X2. I hve had one for years. You can also hook a shop vac to it to control sawdust. |
Walking Sailor | 19 May 2019 11:32 a.m. PST |
Cutting straight and cutting curves are two different jobs and require two different tools. Straight cuts are best made on a table saw link . A full size table saw is the size of a kitchen chair and must be used outdoors (they throw a lot of saw dust). Note that the guide slots are only 4-5" from the blade limiting the size of the piece that you start with to make accurate cuts. If you have large pieces you need to support the over hang. The minimum is: link but thats only a 5" X 7" table. [rental, Home Depot $50 USD/day; you own it in 2 1/2 days; not worth it] Cutting curves takes a scroll saw. You can see in Wackmole9's link what it can do. It can be used to make straight cuts, add this link . I agree with Awf link . Get a scrap piece of 1x4, 8" to a foot. From the end center a V 2 1/2 " wide and 3" deep/long. Cut that out to make a fork, clamp the square end to your work bench and make cuts in the V to protect your bench. |
HMS Exeter | 19 May 2019 4:31 p.m. PST |
I got a Micro Mart table saw. Best hobby $$$ I ever spent. |
Grimmnar | 20 May 2019 6:11 p.m. PST |
link Finger replacements sold separately. Grimm |
Sgt Slag | 20 May 2019 8:02 p.m. PST |
Bandsaw's can cut straight, but you need one with a cast-iron table, and frame: these are professional grade, and start around $800 USD, and up. To cut straight, you need a minimum of around 25,000 lbs. of tension on the blade -- only a cast-iron frame will hold that much tension. A hobby table saw is your best option. I tried using a full-sized table saw to cut MDF into 2"-square bases… It would cut a 2"-wide strip, but not the 2"-squares (became projectiles, and they definitely left a mark… on me!). For that, you need a chop/miter saw. In other words, use the table saw to cut MDF into 2"-wide strips, then stack the strips, and clamp them down in place, to cut stacks of 2"-squares with each chop pass. If you want bases smaller than 2" squares, use the hobby saws only. The smaller bases will become hi-velocity projectiles, hurled by the saw blades! Wear face/throat protection… Cheers! |
GildasFacit | 21 May 2019 10:47 a.m. PST |
I quite safely cut down to 30mm squares of 2mm MDF using a table saw. The trick is to make jigs to act as support and guide – also improves accuracy and reduces the effects of vibration. Most bases I cut are from magnetic backed MDF and that can held steady on a jig of Ferrosheet. Those I can cut down to 15mm. The 50mm bladed hobby saws are next to useless for me. They overheat and really do not like MDF – simply not powerful enough for the job. I also find the quality of blades is very poor and I've never found carbide tipped blades that small – which is what I use in my table saw. |
CeruLucifus | 22 May 2019 4:40 a.m. PST |
A band saw with a rip fence and miter fence or crosscut jig. For curves you can work close to the blade to cut freehand. For circles, buy/make a circle cutting jig. The upper blade guide can be lowered to provide support right above the material, so blade distortion won't be a factor for sheet stock unless you push the material very aggressively. For small figure bases e.g., 20mm, 1", you *can* rip these widths from (not too large) sheet stock on a band saw using the rip fence. However, I would buy the strip stock pre-cut in those widths. Either way you source the strip stock, cross cut using a miter gauge set to 90 degrees (or equivalent sled jig). For metal, standard woodworking saw blades can cut non-ferrous metal. For steel sheet though you want to get a specialty blade; woodworking saw speeds are too fast for steel but it will probably work for thin steel sheet. Plastic sheet can usually be cut successfully on woodworking saws; slower blade speeds are recommended, but with sheet stock there should be minimal melting. |