Help support TMP


"Pinning or use the cast on peg?" Topic


6 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

Please be courteous toward your fellow TMP members.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Back to the Pre-Paint Preparation Message Board


Action Log

26 Jan 2019 6:51 p.m. PST
by Editor in Chief Bill

  • Changed title from "Pinning or use the cast on peg ?" to "Pinning or use the cast on peg?"

Areas of Interest

General

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Recent Link


Featured Ruleset

Risus


Rating: gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star 


Featured Workbench Article

Deep Dream: Can It Map?

Can artificial intelligence create useful maps for wargamers?


Featured Profile Article

Pegboards at Dollar Tree

Pegboards can be used for wargaming campaigns.


Current Poll


1,082 hits since 26 Jan 2019
©1994-2024 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?


TMP logo

Zardoz

Please sign in to your membership account, or, if you are not yet a member, please sign up for your free membership account.
haywire26 Jan 2019 5:05 p.m. PST

I have a bunch of old metal space hulk terminators that I have stripped the paint and I am about to rebuild and repaint. The arms have a hole and the shoulders have a 3mm peg


For some reason my brain just can't decide on whether it is better to:

A.) use the molded on pegs for the arms.
Pro: Less Work
Con: I don't trust the fit, stability, strength of the old pewter and CA glue.

B.) replace them with standard 1mm diam pins and fill in the shoulder hole with GS or Milliput.
Con? Will it be strong enough with the putty?

C) Option B with 2 pins. Avoiding the original hole and peg completely.
Pro: Strongest solution? More pose-ability?
Con: more work

D) replace the pegs with 3mm diam brass pins.
Pro: Just need to ream the arm hole
Con: Most work. Thicker hole to drill in the body. Thicker brass harder to cut.


Thoughts?


Also, as a sidenote, as much as I hate magnetizing minis, I reread the rules and I am now interpreting that you can give the chainfist to the marines armed with an assault cannon or flamer. So those guys are getting swappable powerfist or chainfist arms.

Lucius27 Jan 2019 4:12 a.m. PST

I'd go with option E. :-)

Use the original pins with 2 part steel epoxy glue, instead of CA. If you are clever, you can put the epoxy deep in the hole, and place a tiny bit of CA gel on one side of the lip to hold it in place while the epoxy dries.

haywire27 Jan 2019 1:31 p.m. PST

2 part epoxies and I never work out. I can never get the ratios correct and just end up with glop. I especially HATE the syringe versions because one side always seems to jam up while the other side is spewing out leaving me with a while bunch of part A and little to no part B.

Lucius27 Jan 2019 4:45 p.m. PST

In that case, go with option A, realizing that not all CA glues are equal. Cheap CA just isn't as good as high-end name brand CA.

I've been using Locktite's heavy-duty Ultragel Control on some early-90's minis, and it works much better than any other CA that I've ever used. It isn't as brittle and has a much stronger bond. Generic CA is really a different product than this stuff.

Yes, it costs twice what generic gels cost, even that only means $3 USD or so.

Walking Sailor27 Jan 2019 7:01 p.m. PST

Option A as a temporary, and then drill and (double?) pin.
Lucius is right about using good CA. I use Gorilla Glue. They claim that it is more shock resistant.

KeepYourPowderDry29 Jan 2019 12:04 p.m. PST

Pop a tiny blob of liquid greens tuff in the hole and some super glue for instant fix. Combination of the two makes for a super strong fix

Sorry - only verified members can post on the forums.