"Game table height?" Topic

I'm going to have a custom table built and I'm trying to choose the height. What is best and why between 30" (normal dining room table height.), 34" (counter height), and 42" (bar height)?

Standard table is nice because you can use dining room chairs, but I am leanin* toward bar height.

Thanks for your opinion.

I'm happy with my Ping Pong table. You need to be able to put elbows on table while sitting down.

Bar height is just great for your back.

Unfortunately if your table is large one it'll be very hard to reach the middle without leaning on top of the side.

As I sit in my office style chair (and happen to have a tape measure handy) 42" would put the surface at eye level. I've got a tabletop periscope for that.

I wouldn't go over 30". The folding leg card tables are only 27½". I want to be able to comfortably write notes or fill out forms while sitting.,

But I am a bit short. Experiment with what you have access to and maybe sample what's in stores including game store setups. Check out pictures from conventions where they most likely use the ubiquitous banquet tables.

Good question

I use standard table height because I have a bunch of standard tables – if I have my choice it would be bar height because we game standing up, but as noted above might make it hard to reach mid-table for larger games

It depends on your height and how you will be gaming: sitting or standing.

When I had my table built I set the height at 48". I'm 6'5" and we game standing.

Gaming standing, taller is better on the back than shorter.

But I find sitting is better on the back than standing.

Bar height is fine if there are bar stools, and preferably with backs on them!

I observe that most people spend most of the game standing, even if there are chairs. We just sit down when we want to rest our feet.

When you're standing, a taller table requires less bending over and is easier on the back.

You can't go too high, because you want seated players to be able to see the table, and standing players to be able to reach the middle.

Tables by Davis offers custom tables with an electronic lift system: touch a button to raise/lower your table (available on both the Prinz model, and the Konig model). Minimum height is 28", maximum height is north of 50" (allows you to store the leaf sections beneath, in the base, out of the way when not on the tabletop).

The ability to vary the height allows your gaming table to be used for other purposes, when games are not being played: dining, board games, use it as a cutting table for quilting, or other sewing purposes. The removable solid-Hickory tabletop leaves allow the table to serve multiple functions. Tables are made of Hickory: harder than Oak, takes stain of any color. Only the game-well sub-structure (Poplar), and its plywood cover, are made of something other than Hickory. Here is our web site, unfortunately, it is still under construction: www.tablesbydavis.com.

If neither of our current designs (Prinz and Konig) is what you want, let us know, and we can work with you to design what you need. Cheers!

In preparing for a basement reno, I was thinking about this question too, and am not yet committed to a height, and am a bit loath to choose. I spend more time sitting than standing, mostly painting, but don't like reaching, so for moving lead, measuring etc I find bar stool height better. After the reno, ideally, I'd be using the same table(s) for most painting, working, and gaming.

Because of this, I am thinking of going with adjustable tables and have been looking around. I note that Ikea produces several that crank up or down easily. The SKARSTA model comes in two sizes, roughly 48 x 27 inches and a bigger one at around 61 x 31 inches. I've not decided yet, but I am thinking about buying four, arranged 2x2. They can be raised for gaming and lowered for working or painting. Stowage fits underneath, they can be moved easily, and they have a good weight limit. The total cost would be something like $1,100 USD (US) or $1,250 USD (US) for four, I think, depending on size.

Good luck, whatever you decide.

High enough so that you don't get back ache.

Low enough so that you can reach the middle.

I keep envisioning an adjustable height like flight stands or stacking Legos. It should be cheaper than mechanically assisted super tables, but would certainly add physical effort that may be too much for one person.

from a previous post TMP link
The IKEA SKARSTA model is the same mechanism under both table tops.
The Lee Valley reference is to the mechanism only of the IKEA SKARSTA model. $249 USD for hand crank link (for that price IKEA comes with a top). $379 USD motorized link
It seems like you can set anything on top of the leg set. If you do put something in the range a 4x6 plywood top on it, you may need to offset it to allow the crank handle to swing. Also add a length of 2x4 equal to the width of the table top to the bottom of the feet for stability.

I too am happy with ping pong table height. I did see one table set up with the table height of only3 feet for miniature use. Board game tables need to be four feet or so.

Thanks for the input folks!

@SgtSlag: Your tables sound interesting but the shop page of your website goes to a page not fond error. If you have an alternate way to let me get a sense of your selection let me know.

I prefer to sit,so basic height table.

Sorry about that, axabrax. Here are some direct links which I hope will work for you:

Prinz Table: 4" deep, game well; flat, removable leaves; no pull-out drawers; can be made to your custom size requirements; fixed, or electronic lift system options; comes with indoor/outdoor carpet options, but this can be removed and replaced with photographic quality mats, if desired, the base has cut-out's to tuck them under the inside wall, creating a seamless edge (assuming the mats are cut to proper size). The Prinz Table shown, is 4' x 6', with a fixed base. The model shown is an early prototype, which had a mechanical lift rod, to assist in removing the leaves; the current design employs a suction cup tool, included, to remove the leaves.

Konig Table: 4" deep, game well; flat, removable leaves; features pull-out drawers with optional dry-erase clear overlays available for each drawer; can be made to your custom size requirements; fixed, or electronic lift system options;comes with indoor/outdoor carpet options, but this can be removed and replaced with photographic quality mats, if desired, the base has cut-out's to tuck them under the inside wall, creating a seamless edge (assuming the mats are cut to proper size). The Konig Table shown, is 5' x 9', and it features a fixed base. We will be producing a video tour of the Konig Table within the next several months, demonstrating the electronic lift system, and base.

We are developing a new Kaiser Table design which will feature enclosed storage beneath the game well. The Kaiser Table will be offered with either a fixed height base, or an electronic lift base (the cupboard storage will raise/lower with the game well). We hope to have the Kaiser Table on the web catalog within a year.

Custom Table Order Form: fill out the questions, and we will get back to you, to discuss the details of your custom Table.

Thank you. Cheers!

My portable table is based on a variable height folding table, I can adjust it to different heights depending on the need.

Most tables at war gaming conventions are designed for wedding receptions and parties, so regular chairs are required. My game table at home is 34" and we use bar stools if we are playing a card game or board game. Our miniatures games don't allow you to sit down because of troop movements. (28mm). We did have one club member (RIP) that would sit down and never move his troops past what he could reach. One must take the age of the players under consideration when planning a game room remodel.