Cacique Caribe | 10 Jun 2018 1:10 p.m. PST |
And, if so, got any suggestions? What do you do with any remnants of the original metal base? I was thinking of trimming the metal base as much as possible and then painting it dark gray, to appear as a shadow under the figure. I also found these very inspiring: link TMP link TMP link TMP link Dan PS. I just ordered these, by the way: auction |
JimDuncanUK | 10 Jun 2018 1:19 p.m. PST |
Not as figures bases. I use them as markers sometimes with a symbol painted on. |
ZULUPAUL | 10 Jun 2018 2:15 p.m. PST |
I tried that years ago, didn't care for the result. Difficult to remove the puddle base on figure & still have a strong glue point I found. |
Winston Smith | 10 Jun 2018 2:21 p.m. PST |
I would never use clear bases for figures. They would get so scratched that it would render the effect pointless. Besides, how am I to deal with the base the figure is already on? Am I supposed to clip it all away and glue just the feet to a clear base? And eont any glue just frost the base anyway? |
Lupulus | 10 Jun 2018 2:35 p.m. PST |
I got my transparent bases from Fenris; 15 mm diameter, 1 mm thick. I prefer sharp edges (laser cut) over rounded, they are less visible. Here's a description of how to remove the metal base: TMP link |
Lion in the Stars | 10 Jun 2018 4:41 p.m. PST |
A big 10" flat mill file works wonders thinning down a cast-on base. But the only models I'm putting on clear bases are some 28mm Infinity minis. |
War Monkey | 10 Jun 2018 8:01 p.m. PST |
NOPE! Have enough trouble finding time to just do basic basing, let alone painting the "Lead Mountain" as well. |
tkdguy | 10 Jun 2018 10:03 p.m. PST |
My miniatures are mostly 25-28 mm, but I use the clear bases on some of my miniatures. I have some photos in this thread: TMP link Removing the slot from those miniatures took a really long time. I had a somewhat easier time rebasing plastic Heroclix figures to clear bases, although I got a little careless sometimes. TMP link If the miniature comes with a very small metal base, I paint it up as a shadow or as part of the figure's clothing if the figure has a robe or dress. Then I just glue the miniature to the clear base. Edit: Litko sells clear bases with different sizes and thicknesses. |
Lion in the Stars | 14 Jun 2018 6:26 p.m. PST |
If you're taking the slot off a 28mm mini, then use clippers to take most of it off and finish up with a big flat file. For 15mm, trim the puddle base down as much as possible but leave a strip connecting the feet, then file that down until it's pretty thin (less than half a mm). Then use a sharp Xacto knife to remove the last of the base. But the only time I'd use clear bases is for zero gee basing. |
Cacique Caribe | 14 Jun 2018 7:30 p.m. PST |
Guys, 1) So, from your experience, what's the best adhesive to use? 2) And, if there are scratches later on to the acrylic base, is there something that could be applied to the scratches that would make them almost disappear? Perhaps something like what people use on scratched eyeglass lenses? Dan |
tkdguy | 15 Jun 2018 10:18 p.m. PST |
Litko sells adhesives that they recommend for use with their bases. One type is for metal miniatures, another for plastic. Pulp Alley has a video on preparing miniatures for clear bases. YouTube link Not sure how to fix any scratches. I read an article somewhere that recommended buying extra bases for when those scratches appear. I personally wouldn't rebase after every scratch; YMMV. I have thought of using a clear sealer or even clear nail polish to protect the base, but I don't know if it will cause any fogging. |