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"Spray Paint and Primer Questions" Topic

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519 hits since 29 Apr 2018
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MiniPigs Supporting Member of TMP30 Apr 2018 3:41 p.m. PST

A good but inexpensive primer for resin models?

I was considering "Duplicolor Gray Sandable Primer" Is that good for resin models?

Generally, for spray painting or priming any models from buildings to miniatures, Is it better to:

1. Spray on paper towels
2. Spray on cloth
3. Paper on top of cloth?

Personal logo Flashman14 Supporting Member of TMP30 Apr 2018 3:53 p.m. PST

None of the above on the surface question.

I use a small board reserved for this purpose or occasionally a strip of plexiglass with a line of double sided tape along its length.

Many others use a combo of tape and cardboard.

CAPTAIN BEEFHEART30 Apr 2018 4:16 p.m. PST

I personally prefer brush priming but for spray, auto primer or it's cousins generally work on any surface.
Quality may vary though. There are many, many brands of spray paint out there to choose from. I prefer the cheap stuff.

As regards the background surface, I'm a traditionalist and prefer news paper. However, more modern types can use Tablets, E-readers or i-phones. It's all a matter of personal taste or the availability of things you don't mind getting paint on.

Hlaven Supporting Member of TMP30 Apr 2018 4:33 p.m. PST

I use a plastic food tray for priming and when I am spraying a sealant like dullcote.

wrgmr130 Apr 2018 5:45 p.m. PST

I use black or grey tremclad primer on resin, for a background newspaper or plastic foods trays as others mentioned above.

Rich Bliss30 Apr 2018 5:53 p.m. PST

For resin, I always use a brush-on Gesso ever since Imhad a bad experience with the spray not curing, probably due to outgassing from the resin.

robert piepenbrink Supporting Member of TMP30 Apr 2018 7:16 p.m. PST

I line a cardboard box with newspaper for all spray painting. Works pretty well for me, but change the newspapers every so often, lest the newly-primed model stick to the paint on the old papers.

Cheap spray primers have worked pretty well for me on resin, but don't forget to wash and air dry the model first.

JAFD2630 Apr 2018 10:05 p.m. PST

Salutations, gentlefolk !

Spent a rainy day last week deflashing about 250 figures, sanding smooth the bases, splashing them around in jars with Pine-Sol solution to get 'mold release agent' and fingerprints, etc, off. So later today, predicted sunny and warm, outside to prime.

Made a couple of trays, about 12"x18". I arrange figures on one, with tweezers so no fingerprint oils, spray – ZIP – one or two seconds side to side, give tray a 90 degree turn, ZIP again. Repeat and repeat. Put aside to dry. Arrange second batch on Tray #2, zip zip zip zip, aside to dry.

Take Tray #1 and your tweezers, turn the figures over, zip zip zip zip, aside to dry. Turn over and paint Tray #2. Tweeze up figures from Tray 1, take to workbench, while Tray 2 drys, if more figures left, repeat.

I use 'hardware store' metal primer, works OK for me, but whatever you prefer. Don't know how your primer would work on resin, you can always try it on bottom or a hidden surface…

If you want to make sure paint doesn't stick buildings to painting surface, might want to put washers or pennies or other small coins under them…

Good luck !

Oberlindes Sol LIC Supporting Member of TMP04 May 2018 1:00 a.m. PST

I usually find a large box and a medium-sized box (like for copier paper). The large box becomes the table, and the medium-sized box becomes the spray booth.

I have covered a small plastic lawn table with paper and used that as a spray table.

I have never had a problem with anything sticking to the box, so I don't line it.

I use trays for carrying small items to and from the spray booth. For trays, I usually use old CDs.

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