| AC1963 | 27 Mar 2018 2:36 p.m. PST |
Hi, Really basic question. I have some 28mm skirmish figures to glue to individual 25mm round MDF bases. Am I best using two part epoxy or superglue? |
| Winston Smith | 27 Mar 2018 2:39 p.m. PST |
Two part epoxy.
Mdf is too porous for superglue. |
| John Armatys | 27 Mar 2018 2:52 p.m. PST |
I'd use Uhu (normally available at Poundland) – if ever you need to rebase it is easier to get off than epoxy. |
 T Callahan  | 27 Mar 2018 2:56 p.m. PST |
I use PVA (white glue), it is water soluble and makes getting the figure(s) off the base, with little residue, easier. In twenty years I have never had one fail to stay on the base. Terry |
| AC1963 | 27 Mar 2018 3:28 p.m. PST |
Many thanks. Not sure about PVA – can see it working with 15mm or smaller. But 28mm is quite a lump of metal so not convinced PVA would hold up. Will use epoxy – can't imagine rebasing will ever be a problem as these are just single figures on the base. |
| jeffreyw3 | 27 Mar 2018 3:43 p.m. PST |
All mine are based using PVA. It holds up. And one day, you might want to rebase… |
| Ed Mohrmann | 27 Mar 2018 3:49 p.m. PST |
AC1963 I have several thousand 28's affixed to their
bases with Elmer's glue (white glue). These are ACW
and Napoleonics. No problem with them staying in place. Basing material is wood. |
| DisasterWargamer | 27 Mar 2018 4:35 p.m. PST |
Elmer's White Glue here as well |
 ColCampbell | 27 Mar 2018 4:58 p.m. PST |
I've used Elmer's Glue/White Glue/PVA for adhering metal figures to wooden bases for decades and have never had any problem. Its mush less expensive and easier than 2-part epoxy. Jim |
| Fred Mills | 27 Mar 2018 4:59 p.m. PST |
I use white glue, and sometimes wood glue, but the figure bases also have a texture applied around them. The combination – glue plus texture – has never shed a figure. |
| Extrabio1947 | 27 Mar 2018 5:38 p.m. PST |
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| wrgmr1 | 27 Mar 2018 5:51 p.m. PST |
White glue. Add basing material using more glue and it is very strong.
These are all big heavy Front Rank figures, using white glue.
|
| khanscom | 27 Mar 2018 6:07 p.m. PST |
Carpenter's Glue/ Wood Glue has always worked well for me; a lot of my texturing on the bases is done with epoxy putty so this probably helps. |
| Okiegamer | 27 Mar 2018 7:28 p.m. PST |
I had always used white glue, mostly with matte board bases. But when I first started using Litko wooden bases, I had a problem with it causing them to warp. I asked Litko and they said I had to use super glue. Has anyone else had this problem? I really like white glue better as its cheaper, easy to use, and easier to rebase. |
| nevinsrip | 27 Mar 2018 7:32 p.m. PST |
GOOP…There is nothing better. |
| Gonsalvo | 27 Mar 2018 9:09 p.m. PST |
I've used white glue (PVA) for decades on metal, masonite, artists board, balsa, and mdf plywood bases, never an issue. Ditto no warping with Litko MDF bases warping (3mm thickness, I should add.) |
| slugbalancer | 27 Mar 2018 11:47 p.m. PST |
Super glue works just fine with MDF bases. |
| paintingden | 28 Mar 2018 1:58 a.m. PST |
yes I use super glue on mdf with no problems at all, you can get large bottles of glue in the UK cheaply, and its quicker then waiting for pva glue to dry. |
| slugbalancer | 28 Mar 2018 3:15 a.m. PST |
Super glue gel works best. |
| Vigilant | 28 Mar 2018 4:47 a.m. PST |
Never had problems with superglue. I then use tile grout to texture the finished figure which adds to the strength. |
| Thomas O | 28 Mar 2018 6:21 a.m. PST |
I use either "Elmer's Carpenters Glue" or "Aleene's Tacky Glue". Have had great luck with either one and I am gluing 28mm figures to washers with them. I do put a small piece of masking tape over the hole. |
| jhancock | 28 Mar 2018 7:07 a.m. PST |
I use an "industrial grade" of PVA sold as Weldbond, or cyanoacrylate when time is a factor. The PVA seems more flexible and less brittle, so the figures are less likely to pop off if dropped or handled roughly. I usually prime coat MDF or Masonite before gluing or flocking to seal it against swelling and warping. Jeff |
 Sgt Slag | 28 Mar 2018 8:14 a.m. PST |
E6000 Glue: solvent-based, but it remains flexible, when hardened. Easy to use, easy to pry apart, if necessary. Works with metal, plastic, resin figures, including plastic Army Men -- that plastic is hard to bond anything to! Clear. Available at most box stores, in the USA. I would recommend against using 2-part epoxy: messy, wasteful, and can cause issues if you ever need to re-base. I used 2-part epoxy for basing in my early days, but I found it too much work, too expensive, and difficult. Cheers! |
| Timmo uk | 28 Mar 2018 8:36 a.m. PST |
I use two part epoxy. I cover the entire surface of the base (ply in my case). I do this to ensure that moisture from the filler I use to build up the base texture, can't penetrate into the wood base. |
| steamingdave47 | 28 Mar 2018 11:30 a.m. PST |
I use Uhu glue. Apply dabs to base, leave about 30 seconds to allow some of solvent to evaporate, it then acts like a "contact adhesive". I then leave overnight and finish bases with wood glue (prefer Gorilla wood glue, but the white PVA stuff works as well) and sand. Lot cheaper than two part epoxy, smells better and less wasteful of glue. |
worries about not losing his rules stuff.
