captaincold69 | 08 Feb 2018 9:14 a.m. PST |
Just seeing if anyone sells canopy style tree formations? I see sites showing how to make them, but just wondering if anyone sells them. |
Cacique Caribe | 08 Feb 2018 9:30 a.m. PST |
Lol, and I've been looking for a good tutorial for some time now. Dan |
darthfozzywig | 08 Feb 2018 9:35 a.m. PST |
Cacique – check out this link for a tutorial 6mmacw.com/forests.html also a great set of ACW rules 😜 CaptainCold – sorry, haven't seen anyone selling canopy trees. 😟 |
Cacique Caribe | 08 Feb 2018 9:50 a.m. PST |
Darthfozzywig Fantastic results and suggestions. I followed some of the links and came across this other one here: link I had no idea they were that simple. Thanks! Dan |
captaincold69 | 08 Feb 2018 10:26 a.m. PST |
I might go this route also as I only need 1 or 2 |
Extra Crispy | 08 Feb 2018 11:12 a.m. PST |
There is a guy making something similar on Kickstarter. But he's using ribberised horse hair I think… |
Ferd45231 | 08 Feb 2018 11:59 a.m. PST |
Years ago I made large forests by using thin plywood cut to an irregular shape. Then I drilled holes in the plywood big enough to accommodate wooden dowels. The dowels were all cut to the same height. This was all painted and flocked. Then I cut out a roughly equal piece of plywood to rest on top of the dowels. The top was painted and clumpy foliage was glued down to the entire surface. The woods looked good, especially from the bird's eye view. The woods looked dark and dense enough from the table top view. Obviously the top was removed when play moved into the woods. H |
Thomas O | 08 Feb 2018 12:54 p.m. PST |
I followed the instructions on the link that Darthfozzywig posted above, but I used some heavy cardboard spray painted black with roofing nails hot glued to the bottom for the trunks. I know they say to use "Clump Foliage" but Woodland Scenics calls it "FOLIAGE CLUSTERS" now. That is the large clumps that you can tear into shapes. I also agree with Darthfozzywig about the rules, they are very good and give some really great ACW gmaes. |
JSears | 08 Feb 2018 2:54 p.m. PST |
I made a canopy wood for 28mm a few years ago. At that size they become a bit unwieldy. Just my 2 cents in case anyone had the thought of doing a large scale version of the canopy woods.
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Kropotkin303 | 08 Feb 2018 3:53 p.m. PST |
J Sears, That does look very marvelous though. Cheers. |
Cacique Caribe | 08 Feb 2018 3:55 p.m. PST |
Hmm, I might see how the bubbled up spray can insulation foam works as the core of the canopy section. Then I'll just paint it green and add foliage/flock for leaves. Dan |
Yellow Admiral | 08 Feb 2018 4:39 p.m. PST |
That's a cool idea. If that works, I want photos! - Ix |
Yellow Admiral | 08 Feb 2018 4:41 p.m. PST |
Thanks darthfozzywig for the link to 6mmacw.com/forests.html I've been thinking about making unbased tree canopies like that for small scales (esp. 1/2400 and 1/1200, but 6mm too). It's nice to see someone else's results. FWIW, I would rather use Barge Cement than a hot glue gun (somewhat easier), but for this project I'm tempted to try one of the many Aleene's glues for this project. It would be nice to have something that dries clear and flexible, stays sticky for a while, and can be spread across a large surface area. Hot glue tends to harden too quickly and it's tough to apply nicely (strings everywhere! AAAAAHH!!!). Ideal would be something a bit thicker than a PVA glue that doesn't shrink or soak in when it dries. Recommendations welcome. Sticking the toothpicks into foam core is cool, but presents me with two problems: - Getting the trunks all the same length.
- Making the canopy flexible.
I was hoping that by using green scrubby pads (bought in bulk from dollar stores) I could make flexible canopies that will curve over hill and valley contours – like the top photo in that piece:
I'll see if toothpicks or dowel bits can be glued to scrubby pads somehow. Wish me luck. - Ix |
Cacique Caribe | 08 Feb 2018 6:04 p.m. PST |
How about the clear 2-part epoxy glue that comes in the double barrel syringe? Or low-odor silicone glue, the type used to make glass aquarium tanks, glass shower stalls and other glass enclosures? Dan |
Yellow Admiral | 08 Feb 2018 6:23 p.m. PST |
Silicone glue is a good idea. That stuff spreads pretty well and cleans up easily. I have a love/hate relationship with two-part epoxies. I won't use one if there is any alternative. - Ix |
Cacique Caribe | 08 Feb 2018 6:45 p.m. PST |
What about rubbery Flex Seal (probably the liquid one you apply using a brush), if spread on wax paper? After it hardens, peel off and you have a flexible rubbery base for your forest. YouTube link YouTube link YouTube link Dan |
StoneMtnMinis | 09 Feb 2018 12:09 a.m. PST |
Instead of expensive foliage clusters you can use cheap, different sized craft pom-poms for the canopy shape. You can purchase them from Hobby Lobby or Michael's in various sizes to breakup a "too uniform" look. Also, trimming the pom-poms into various shapes will also breakup the uniformity. Then spray with your favorite adhesive and add different shades of ground foam to give a realistic appearance. Dave WargamingMiniatures.com |
Extra Crispy | 10 Feb 2018 9:27 a.m. PST |
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Wackmole9 | 10 Feb 2018 11:38 a.m. PST |
Extra Crispy, That is cheap Furnace filter with Spray Glue and Flock. Very Cheap to make and looks great. |
coopman | 10 Feb 2018 7:08 p.m. PST |
So where do you put the figures if you use this type of woods? They would either have to be placed on top of the woods or they are forbidden to enter, right? |
Yellow Admiral | 11 Feb 2018 12:12 a.m. PST |
Just lift the tree canopy out of the way as the miniatures move through the area of the forest. I delineate all of my area terrain features with markings on the ground – usually decorated felt, sometimes other types of decorated flat material, sometimes drawn directly onto the ground cloth. This allows me to use 3D features like trees and buildings and lichen and stuff as decorations that can be moved out of the way and still see whether a unit is "in" or "out" of the area. - Ix |