"Red Acrylic Paints Comparison (21 Paints Tested)" Topic

In preparation for painting a Zulu Wars British Force, I tested the 21 red acrylic paints I own for brightness and opacity. Obviously this test is not comprehensive, but maybe it will help some. I'll probably add to it if I get more paints.

link

Does anyone know of manufacturer who makes 28mm Union artillerymen wearing Hardee Hats? I think Foundry does but their figures are small compared to most other 28mm figures.

Also, does anyone make a 32pdr naval gun that is sold separately (without artillerymen)?

Thanks.

Does anyone know of manufacturer who makes 28mm Union artillerymen wearing Hardee Hats? I think Foundry does but their figures are small compared to most other 28mm figures.

Also, does anyone make a 32pdr naval gun that is sold separately (without artillerymen)?

Thanks.

bug infestation

The bug seems to be attracted to red!

I'm curious how these would've compared to the commonly available and less expensive craft paint lines out there.

Doctor X – I did test one craft paint – Apple Barrel Real Red. It was fine in its normal thick state. It was about the same hue as Vallejo Model Color Flat Red. When I thinned it to match the consistency of the Vallejo paints, it required two layers to cover the black basecoat. It was useable, but compared with its game paint equivalent, it would require more work. At some point I'll probably test other craft paints.

I have the liquitex in brass, I like it

The Liquitex steel is awesome. I use it for bayonets and such. First time, every time.

I did test one craft paint – Apple Barrel Real Red

Apologies – missed that on in the list!

I've used the Delta Ceramcoat craft paints for a number of years in certain situations. That brand seems to carry more pigment and is on the higher end of the cost and performance spectrum in the craft paint arena.

Doctor X – what are the best red and blue craft paints you've used?

tbeard1999:

Americana Deep Midnight Blue and Delta Ceramcoat Fruit Punch are two that I've found useful. Lower chroma than some, which seems more accurate for those natural dyes that might exhibit less colorfastness.

Just curious. If Apple Barrel Real Red was fine in its normal state, why thin it? Why must it match the consistency of the other paints if it works as-is?

Cleburne1863:

You might want to thin the paint to minimize visible brush strokes; it doesn't seem to be a problem except in time expended applying multiple coats. I think the savings in cost are worth the extra time spent (I paint sloooooo…wly anyway).

BTW, I just finished using the Real Red on a Galatian shield this morning-- required 3 coats to adequately cover a grey primer. This was thinned to avoid brushstrokes, but in the end it looked smooth enough for additional detailing.

Cleburne1863 – the comparison was to help me determine which paints would work best for me. I like my paints at about the same consistency as Vallejo Model Color, so I thinned the craft paint to about the same consistency (which is generally thick for gaming paints). As I noted the craft paint was fine in its original consistency.

Another lovely contribution!

I started out with various hobby paints and eventually swung over to the craft paints because of price and color variety advantages. However,several years ago, when I began painting with the Vallejo colors, I went pretty much with them. They are more expensive but they do have a variety of shades. Coverages is excellent.

Normal Guy – Yes, Vallejo seems to do quite well in my tests. Of course, that may be due to selection bias -- Vallejo and Citadel comprise the majority of my paints. Still, Vallejo competes well with Citadel so far.

I'm gonna add some craft paints to my tests, which is why I've asked for craft paint blue and red recommendations.

Coming tomorrow hopefully – test of Red, Blue and Yellow craft paints along with Yellow and White game paints.

what are the best red and blue craft paints you've used?

At my painting table right now and after grabbing a few, all Ceramcoat, I have had good luck with the following:

Prussian Blue
Navy Blue
Bonnie Blue
Cape Cod Blue
Liberty Blue
Denim Blue
Blue Jay
Copenhagen Blue

Georgia Clay
Tomato SPice
Adobe Red
Cardinal Red
Crimson
Bright Red

There are several other blues and reds that I have not used or can't recall the results. There are also a few that definitely don't cover well.

Hope that helps!

Dang. Thanks for your hard work. Post this on the Reaper and Dakka forums! Red is notorious for being hard to paint. Myself, I underpaint with flesh, but whatever.

Foundry Miniatures are 25mm or original wargame 25mm scale, hence looking slightly small then heroic 28mm scale we have now., a 1mm higher mdf base helps, and gives a unit some variances.

As for reds, try the Foundry range, I have been using them for a while and part of my stable of go to paints as they play nice with a lot of companies paints and washes.

GW khorne red makes a good base cover for reds to build up from.

Alardmatthew – Vallejo Game Color Extra Opaque Heavy Red is a perfect match for Khorne Red and is significantly more opaque. When you decide to replace your Khorne Red, I strongly suggest you take a look at Heavy Red.

Reaper HD Rusty Red Is a darker version of Khorne Red with better opacity.

I just updated the paint swatch sheet.

link