rustymusket | 19 Nov 2017 4:47 p.m. PST |
I have 28mm Foundry Arthurian, Late Roman, Pict figures. I am used to painting ACW figs and now remember what I did not like about ancients. Please let me know what you find is the best way to attach shields and spears to 28mm figures. I currently use super glue and I wonder if there is a better way. The shields are not too bad, though I worry about them staying attached when being handled. It is the spears in the hands that seem to be the hardest to firmly and easily attach. I bought some super glue gel, hoping that would work better than regular super glue or silicone. Any experience is much appreciated. |
Ten Fingered Jack | 19 Nov 2017 5:15 p.m. PST |
I use "Quick Grip". It sets up fast and gives a durable and flexible bond that stands up to minor shocks that would break super glue bonds. |
idontbelieveit | 19 Nov 2017 5:55 p.m. PST |
Yeah, don't use super glue…. You can use super glue to get something that is awkward to set quickly, but they will pop out really easily. I use 2 part epoxy of the 5 min variety. Let it almost set up and then stick the spear to the hand. It will be sticky enough to hold it and flexible enough to allow a little positioning. |
Doctor X | 19 Nov 2017 6:06 p.m. PST |
I prefer super glue due to expediency. But I use the super glue from Walmart, which is made in China and seems to hold much better than any other I've used. Not to mention two tubes for $1.44 USD. |
Bob in Edmonton | 19 Nov 2017 6:21 p.m. PST |
Super glue (lock-tite gel) plus a good coat of sealer. |
skipper John | 19 Nov 2017 7:30 p.m. PST |
You want it to stay? Use a 2 part epoxy. Simple. |
The Beast Rampant | 19 Nov 2017 7:46 p.m. PST |
I've used Zap-A-Gap for ages. The only time anything ever rally breaks loose is when I drop it from some height. |
Striker | 19 Nov 2017 7:58 p.m. PST |
I put 2 part epoxy on the hand and a small drop of super glue on the item and then stick together. I'm also doing it this way for my 6mm jets getting missiles. I know some people have had luck with super glue and a small blob of green stuff. |
Bowman | 19 Nov 2017 8:55 p.m. PST |
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Benvartok | 19 Nov 2017 9:16 p.m. PST |
Or super glue on one part and pva (wood glue) on the other. Stronger bond than superglue alone. |
wrgmr1 | 19 Nov 2017 10:20 p.m. PST |
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ZULUPAUL | 20 Nov 2017 3:25 a.m. PST |
I use a superglue/527 glue mix, holds well. |
Durban Gamer | 20 Nov 2017 4:28 a.m. PST |
Agree on superglue to grip, then epoxy. But I use slow setting epoxy – much stronger and better working time window than quickset epoxy. |
Doug MSC | 20 Nov 2017 6:34 a.m. PST |
I used to use super glue but now use super glue gel. I get it from Walmart also. It holds strong. After a game of about 1,000 figures, I will usually need to re-glue maybe one or two shields or a large polearm that really needed a bigger holding space on the figure anyway. So it works out that I can re-glue them and they haven't come off since. |
22ndFoot | 20 Nov 2017 8:21 a.m. PST |
Striker's method is a good one. One refinment, particularly for shields, is to put a tiny piece of greenstuff in the join and then one of more viscous superglue formulations. This has the same quick setting effect but with the advantage of instant grip. For heads and arms it fills any gap as well. |
MajorB | 20 Nov 2017 11:20 a.m. PST |
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mckrok | 20 Nov 2017 2:55 p.m. PST |
I use two part epoxy. I find super glue brittle especially over time. Excepting a few times I screwed up mixing the epoxy (which is easily fixed with a layer of epoxy on top), I don't recall ever having a bond fail. Holding the items together while the epoxy sets can be a pain, but blue tacky is your friend. pjm |
Mick the Metalsmith | 20 Nov 2017 3:45 p.m. PST |
Goop works well. I use it as much as superglue. As fo breaking off , I find in game repairs with a gel aren't too time consuming. I would rather have a brittle weak gluejoint then have some metal break somewhere else—Spears and swords being rather thin. |
cytaylor | 20 Nov 2017 7:07 p.m. PST |
another vote for GOOP – the clear multipurpose one, not the plumbing one. it has a bit of elasticity, so not many problems with things popping off. also gap filling cyanoacrylate |
Great War Ace | 20 Nov 2017 7:41 p.m. PST |
There are good and poor super glues. Loctite sets up quickly and is strong. The trick with shields and spears (or any glued weapons) is to wrap the hand around the weapon so that it stays without gluing. Then drop the glue onto the hand and weapon and wiggle it in with a little side to side pressure on the weapon to make sure the glue goes all the way in and around the hand and weapon. Shields are different. You want a meeting of flat surfaces in most cases. This requires that you file the arm flat where it will meet the inside of the shield. Wherever possible, glue the shield to another part of the figure, to form a "triangulation" with two bonding points, the arm and (for instance) the leg of the figure. |
Bobgnar | 20 Nov 2017 10:36 p.m. PST |
contact cement. A little dab on the hands, a dab on the spear and shield, wait 10 minutes and then just attach the two pieces. Maybe add a drop of super glue to solidify, but not needed. The best super like glue, super duper glue is Rapidfix. Strongest glue ever, Do not glue your fingers together or you will be soaking them in nail polish remover for a couple of hours, speaking from personal experience. All you need is the liquid, the powder is a filler to fill holes for stripped screws. Not like two part epoxy. Which I used before this. |
rustymusket | 21 Nov 2017 5:58 a.m. PST |
Thank you, All, for your experience. (This is why I renewed my supporting membership; the knowledge and experience with miniatures.) I will review over this advise and decide which way to go. (I get migraines, so I avoid fumes as much as possible. Simple masks don't seem to keep me safe lately. That is one reason I have been avoiding epoxies.) Again, thank you, All, very much. I greatly appreciate you assistance. |