"1/300th scale Heroics and Ros WW1 planes" Topic

Are the Heroics and Ros WW1 aircraft easy to put together? Could someone give me reviews on their Fokker DR.1, Albatross, Siemens Schukert, Se5a, Camel, and Nieuport planes. Are their landing gear flimsy, or sturdy? And do these planes come with struts? Future thanks.

The last time I put any together was around five years ago, but at that time they were quite fiddly at times. It varies though according to the model.I did mostly early war aircraft, so I canīt comment specifically on those you mentioned.

With patience the landing gear goes on well enough, but the real problem is with the struts. I found the metal to be a bit soft and would bend too easily, so I simply replaced them with thin wire, which did the trick.

My skills are rather limited in model building, so take that into account as well.

Agree with Texas Jack, though my last builds were probably over 20 years ago. My solution was to drill through the wings and then use thin wire for the struts, filing the ends flush with the wing when set. Put on under carriage last to stop it getting knocked off whilst building the rest of the aircraft.

I haven't had any experience with WWI biplanes but I've put together a number of early WWII aircraft. The problems usual come with the struts. I've followed the method Vigilent does but I used cut down staples as they are strong and straight.

Iīve also used staples (ran out of wire) and they do indeed work well.

What's everyone's preferred filler for the strut holes? I have used wood filler but it takes so work to make nice. Anything a bit more self levelling?

I rank H&R 2nd after MSD/Goblintooth for ease, for those with struts. Skytrex doesn't have them and CinC and Irregular are super fiddly. Shapeways has no construction usually but some struts are fragile.

I used the wire method as well. But, I just drill through the lower wing from below. That way there is no filling required in the top surface of the top wing (where it is most obvious) plus no loss of detail. I just use a drill pretty close to the wire size and use epoxy.

Mine was done 30+ years ago so other details I leave for those working with newer castings.

boy wunder. Just noticed you posted. What rules are you using?

I do a test run fitting the bits together w/o glue. Then use side of hobby drill small bit for any shaping/flash removal and drill hole under for stand.

Then put together with super glue gel. Then add slow setting epoxy in tiny quantities where needed to strengthen or fill.

I use Milliput silver grey for filling the strut holes.

Thank you everybody for your valuable input.

Thanks slugbalancer.

@Stephen – My H&R have holes in the top wings, at least the 0/400s do. I'm using Algernon Pulls It Off for rules.

bwx

Are you going to be playing any time soon? I would like to get into some air gaming again. I am hoping to run a game of Canvas Eagles at the next Canucks Amuck on the 28th in TO.

Stephen

Right now my painted collection is weighted too heavily towards the Germans, I won't have the game out till I get some RFC done.

BWX

Looks like vapourware. Nowhere to be gotten. Time to print out Canvas Eagles.

I have a big collection of H&R I swear by the copper wire replacement struts system. A pin vice drill helps too. Overall they are nice models which do provide a decent representation of the aircraft they represent. Some of the oddball open fuselage types are tricky to assemble but the others are Ok with the exception of the Fokker DVII which can be a swine. The Siemans and Sopwith Pup models are especially nice, but top of the lot is the Fokker eindekker which is a stunning little model.