"Any thoughts about Army Painter dips?" Topic

Not for eating…for dipping/washing figures, silly! But seriously, I am considering buying into the Army Painter line of paints and washes/dips. I seem to remember someone saying to go lighter than I think I need, as they might tint dark. Any comments from anyone who has used them? I'm looking at using it on ACW, colonials, WW1 and WW2 figs at first, which I would want to look a bit worn and dirty. However, at some point I'll use it on Napoleonics and AWI, which I would keep rather clean looking (I like the parade look).

Any comments, thumbs up or down, are appreciated and not taken as a condemnation of the product…just wondering if it's what I want to use.

Never used the tinned variety as I'm told they are spirit based and consequently smell a bit.

Some folks do use them and get good results.

Others use cheaper alternatives or even make up their own dips.

I always use their acrylic versions, in dropper bottles. Being acrylic they do not smell.

There are several varieties of differing densities and I also use them watered down for subtle effects.

Others will be along shortly to give their experiences.

JimDuncan uses the Army Painter Quickshade Inks. I do the same a swear by them. The price on the dips is really high and it is little more than the tinted varnish you can get at your local hardware store.

Nothing really against the dips, but the price for effect is too high and I can achieve the same with the inks.

My advice if you do the inks is to prime and paint a few spare figures with the primary color you wish to use. Test the different shades of ink on a few figs and see which works best. Some of the inks are in the brown spectrum, some are in the grey/black spectrum.

I've been pleased with the acrylic shades. Strong Tone makes a decent flesh wash.But I agree: sample and experiment before you do armies.

The washes are good but work differently from the dips. Yes, the dips are smelly and they give me a headache. However, the dips work well because the varnish 'clings' to all the recesses in the sculpt when it dries and provides a really gradated shading if used carefully. If you use the dip straight though, the finished product will never 'pop' or look bold or bright. It depends on the effect you want.

Yes using lighter, brighter colours will help. Some people highlight after the dip is dry, or put bright highlights on before using the dip. HOwever, as the dip is supposed to be time-saving, this seems to be defeating the object.

If the figures are 'bland' sculpts, the dip works less well as there are fewer recesses for it to settle in. Modern plastics, both 28mm and 1/72 are good because they are so detailed. and the dip has something to work with.

The washes are water based and shade very nicely, They can be diluted a bit and still work. However, the effect is different to the dips

I use both. The tinned stuff is spirit based and smells and needs white spirit for clean up. It's quite expensive but it will last ages and ages. I brush it on with good results after a matt varnish is applied. Side benefit – your paint job is nicely protected.
The acrylic based inks are superb. Easy clean and no smell.

I've just started using the dips and so far I'm happy with the results. The smell & cleanup isn't a problem for me as I build models and use smelly stuff frequently. I brush on the dip instead of actually dipping the minis. If I can't let the minis dry outside I turn on my spray booth to alleviate some of the smell. It has helped to speed up my painting. Getting the gloss off takes a bit more work than I'm used to, but not impossible. I don't have their inks, but am probably getting them today.

I use Army Paint dip and I think it's great. I actually dip the figure in (some people prefer to paint it on), leave the figure resting over a drip tray for a minute (whilst dipping the next figure) then flick the figure to shake off the excess. Leave for another minute and check for pooling, using a tissue and an old brush to get rid of any excess dip.
I do this outside (pretty much essential due to the flicking), and leave them to dry in the shed for a few days before spraying with antishine matt varnish.

I brush on the dip. It will definitely kill any "pop" that was there, but it shades magically. Sorry there's no magic formula; as others have said, you really do need to test a few mins to see what works for you. The quality of their line is top notch. I like the smell of the dip. My dad was a professional painter, so I grew up around all those solvent smells. It was my job to clean the brushes in thinner at the end of the day. It didn't cause me any blaime dmmmmmige.

I use Polyshades Tudor Brown by Minwax. I brush it on, it works great. Clean up with mineral spirits.

I've used the medium shade in the past. I tried dipping and shaking, but kept dropping the figures (clumsy fat fingers), so I switched to painting. Good results, but I got fed up with the smell and having to use spirits in clean up so I went back to using ink washes. Nothing against the dip, but it is expensive for tinted varnish. Also it is very glossy so you will need a matt varnish after unless you like the toy soldier effect.

I paint in a condo so anything that smelly is right out. I use the Coat d'Arms equivalent "Super Shader". It is cheaper and water based so no smell. The fact that I'm the US dealer for Coat d'Arms is probably entirely coincidental:

link

I also make my own "dips." Future floor wax, water, a drop of dish soap and a some ink. I did that to make a chestnut brown wash for use over oranges and reds, which gives a look I was after.

I have used he Army Painter Quick Shades for about ten years and find them excellent. Yes the tins are expensive but they last a long time if you clean the lid and tin rim with mineral spirits or turpentine and most importantly…store the tin upside down to seal/prevent any possibility of air getting in. Otherwise, you might have a hardened skin on the surafce.

I primarily use the soft tone on lighter cloured figures and strong tone on blues and other darker colours. These tones have a brownish tint to them that provide an ideal shading. The Dark Tone is reserved for equipment and some buildings as it has a black grimy tint.

I too use a brush to apply Army Painter dips, which allows for better control ie prevent pooling. I had intially tried the dipping and flicking inside a lined garbage can and it works but is messy.

The added advantage of QS is that provides a hardened surface that will prevent chipping. Also, QS gives a glossy finish, which I do not like. So, I finish the process with a spray of Dulcote.

I have tried all the Min waxes, other stains, future etc, and have found that nothing is quite as good as the Army Painter Quick Shades. However, to each his own desired method. This method works well for me and I can tolerate the smell, albeit in a well ventilalted room.

Future floor wax, a drop or two of water, add ink and you've got your own quick shade. I would imagine much cheaper too. I've had my bottle of future for 7-10 years now and am only half finished, course that might say something about how much I get painted!

For cold colours such as grey and blue dark tone, which contains more black, is the recommended shade. Strong tone is just too red-brown for such colours, but works very well on warm colours and khakis.

You can achieve a fast highlight effect without the need to open a single pot of paint by painting your figures with light, bright shades of your chosen colours as recommended by AP (the highlight shade if you were painting conventionally), and after shading taking a small, clean brush dipped in thinners and running it over the high points of the detail, wiping the paint onto a tissue.

Lots of very good advice and information, so thanks for all that! Strong smell doesn't bother me, but cleaning up with solvents does, and the $24 USD a can is pretty stiff. I might have to try the Coat d'Arms water-based stuff.

Thanks again for the info, guys!

Acrylic paint dries with a microscopically rough surface. This will grab some Dip, resulting in overall darkening. Paint the figure with full-strength Pledge Floor Shine (clear acrylic) to seal and smooth the surface, prior to applying the Dip (the Pledge needs 12+ hours to cure).

Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stains have two great colors for mini's use: Tudor (black), and Royal Walnut (dirty brown -- my favorite, all around color to use). Get the Satin, and finish with a matte clear coat.

Minwax is best in small tins. Much less costly than Army Painter… Your money, your choice. Cheers!

I use it on WW2, Naps, Imagi's, ACW. Great effect. Good varnish. I matte spray to finish. Good advice above is to brush it on, and dab away any excesses. I like it and a can lasts such a long time that the cost is negligible compared to what I spend on mdf bases, flock, grass tufts, flags etc

That should of course be '…, wiping the stain onto a tissue.'