"3mm armies for Rommel" Topic

I've just posted a little piece on my plans for some 3mm armies with some discussion about base sizes and card/label/roster options.

link

More and more I find a combinations roster/QRS is the best of both worlds. Put just the stats you need in each section of the QRS. SO move stats in the movement section, shoot stats in the shooting section, like this:

PDF link

That's a very good and clear QRS design which is essential for games today. Even better still are games like Peter Pig's Hammerin Iron where you can absorb the rules and factors easily enough to remember them.

Some interesting thoughts there, which I have definitely struggled with I. WW2 – go big, go small, go individual, go mass. For some reason WW2 blows my mind getting it right – as you point out, 24 Napoleonic figures is "acceptable " but tanks seem destined to be seen as individual things. But hope you will continue to share your thoughts as they develop

Marc

I find both WW2 and Napoleonics intimidating – the latter because of getting the uniforms right, and the former because of the myriad of different bits of kit.

My never-used 10mm WW2 armies were organised for Spearhead, but an expert told me he didn't like Spearhead's take on representation and that I had the wrong Sherman variant in one of the units…

I recently reviewed the armies and was reminded of all sorts of ancillary equipment which I'd rather not have to think about or cope with in a game – one of the reasons for my interest in a higher level like Rommel.

Having the wrong Sherman variant is a pretty bad crime in my opinion Doc. I have seen some terrible crimes in my time, but the wrong Sherman variant has rather shown you as a sinner!

Mea culpa. But I only got that version because another expert had previously advised me it was the right one!

These experts have access to detailed OOBs which I've never been able to identify. They must keep them secret. It protects their expertise!

Who'd have thought it was only a game?

Please lets be serious now-you KNOW your self worth is linked directly to the proper number of rivets!

Nobody has ever faulted my counters…

I added some more thoughts (second thoughts?) on proposed basing…

link

Surely a Sherman is a Sherman? Unless it is a Firefly. I understand those are the only two types of Sherman built during WWII… :)

And I bet that 'expert' would happily use Gallic warbands as Ancient German warriors. If it doesn't matter to you and it's your army, then it doesn't matter at all!

Seems to me, if you're at 3mm (I've picked up a couple PicoArmor sample packs just to see what they look like), you really don't have to worry about what type of Sherman model you use as long as its delineated on your base. They made an impressive number of variants, with various armor and weapon configurations (75mm, 76mm, 105mm), but the differences really apply only at lower, skirmish-level games. If each model is a platoon, any one of the types you want to represent should be OK.

Without looking it up, I think there were Shermans in British use at any rate which were longer. AFAICR some of these were used for Fireflys, while others were used as 'ordinary' Shermans with 76mm guns. Anyway, the models were 10mm, and I agree that 3mm models will be more difficult to fault.

I like to base armies on historical formations and to get the hardware right, but thereafter I'm happy to use them for near substitutes.

After a great deal of indecision I decided to use Hexon and 40mm x 30mm bases link

This is absolutely definite…until I change my mind again.

Surely a Sherman is a Sherman? Unless it is a Firefly.

They made an impressive number of variants, with various armor and weapon configurations (75mm, 76mm, 105mm)…

But but but… we're talking about the British army here, aren't we? So we need Sherman I (M4), Sherman II (M4A1), Sherman III (M4A2), Sherman V (M4A4) in addition to Sherman 1*, Sherman III* and Sherman V* (Fireflies). And yes, particularly in Italy they also used 76mm armed Shermans, although I don't think they used 105mm armed Shermans.

Now for heaven's sake don't just focus on the gun. I mean without even counting the rivets, the hull of a Sherman V was 11 inches longer than an Sherman I. At 3mm that's almost 1/50th of an inch!

8-0

-Mark
(aka: Mk 1)

*baps Mark1*

(This forum needs the XP "sticking your tongue out and blowing a raspberry" emoticon)

What does one 'base' represent in Rommel, a company? Battalion?

Bases basically represent reinforced companies or possibly larger depleted units.

actually, I mix 4 types of shermans on my bases mostly with random samples picked from a mix of models M4 75mm (40%), 76mm (30%), EA3(20%) , Jumbo (10%)

Really looking forward to seeing what players come up with as far as units. Also looking forward to reading the rules. My only question it seems is what differentiates a company issued one type of tank compared to another? Or maybe a tank is a tank is a tank.. which I hope not.

Dear Glacier,
Tanks are rated relative to each other in the same time period. So, for example, a Sherman would be superior (value 4) in mid war, but average in late war (value 3.) Against them a Pz IV F2 has the same values. A Tiger rates the highest value (6) in mid war and superior (4) in late war. In a tank battle the side that has the best tanks gets an additional hit.

Tanks are also rated for their rarity and reliability.

It is a simple system but, IMHO, a subtle and accurate one.

You are free to change anything you like in the rules so you make Sherman Companies with Fireflies or 76mm better on the defence if you wished so.

It is a simple system but, IMHO, a subtle and accurate one.
Cheers,
Bertie

I've just started building a US army for Rommel. I would have gone for 6mm, but a guy at my club had already bought 3mm. Now very glad that I did as they're so quick to paint and I like the overall effect.

These are 40mmx40mm with dry wipe marker section.

At 3mm I don't know how you can tell one tank variant from another. I have enough trouble just telling that they are tanks.

Gratian, your bases are superb!

I am stuck at the moment on how to paint mine. Would you mind sharing your recipe?

Sure. And thanks!

Builders sand on a patch of PVA – I deliberately left some areae bare. I also made a few scatches in the sand to represent tank tracks when the glue was still wet.

Undercoated with parched earth basecoat (woodland scenics)

Then I brushed on desert yellow from Vallejo followed by a dry brush of buff (also Vallejo).

I've also added a few bit of flock and 1mm patchy grass since this photo was taken.

I did a few practice runs and settled on this. Hope it works for you.

thanks Gratian. Did you apply a wash on the bases?

Woof, Gratian, a flockbox would work WONDERS on those guys. Nice job on them.

@Gratian: Wow, looking good!

Kinda tempting to do 3mm, but I'd have to get all new terrain. Thus far I've been good about limiting myself to either 28mm urban/industrial (for Infinity and 40k/Armageddon) and 15mm for Flames and everything else.

I may need to chase down a copy of Rommel for the army/operational scale games. But should probably get Blucher first.

@repaint – no wash, just a dry brush over the desert yellow.

@Lits – cheers. Blucher is great too. Rommel is the first modern period rulesI've bought, I usually play Napoleonic and earlier.

Great looking bases, Gratian!

I've gone down the 2mm route (using Irregular Miniatures figures, AFVs etc) and have found that most of the terrain requirements could be quickly, and easily, made from scratch on laser cut mdf tiles.

You can see them here; timstanks.blogspot.ch