"Attaching Shields and transfers" Topic

Should you attach shields to figures before you undercoat them or paint the shields separately then attach them to the painted figure?

How do you attach shield transfers to domed shields, Victrix hoplite shields seem very awkward. Tried scoring the back of the transfers but with limited success.

For hoplite shields I've found it easier to use the BattleFlag decals which are true decals so you just put them on and move them into place.

Unless the shield is cast on, I put the transfers on the shields before attaching them to the figures, so paint figure, paint shield, add transfer, touch up shield, attach shield to figure.

I cut all the way through the shield in 4 places around the shield. It helps, but I think it's just a different distortion than if you don't do that.

I think it's generally better to paint the shields separately and attach them at the end. This allows you to reach areas on the figure which would otherwise be covered awkwardly by the shield, and makes it a little easier to apply transfers to the shield, too (albeit maybe slightly harder to paint the shield itself, especially the rim).

I used LBM transfers on Old Glory Hoplites. They are quite concave, o I would make a small cut at the bottom of the transfer from the middle to the outward edge. Once in place it folded over slightly at the bottom. No one noticed, it was such a small deviation, however the transfer did not have wrinkles.

I always attach shields before priming the figure. The paint weakens the bond between the shield and the figure making the shield more likely to break off the model. And all those areas awkwardly covered by the shield don't need to be painted beyond a hasty coat of brown.

Domed shields are a problem – I think there was a tutorial on Big Red Bat's blog some time ago. Like you I score the backs then gently press the wet backing onto the shield. Use kitchen towel to reinforce the shaping process.

You could also try some decal softener.

I undercoat the shield, paint the face white, gloss varnish, apply transfer and then attach to the figure. Edges/shields are finished off after the shield is attached. I usually dribble additional super glue into the join between hand/shield as the bond is an issue as Ran the Cid pointed out.

Battle Flag decals are certainly a good option.

I work on the shield separately.
Where there us severe curvature, cut and overlap or try micro- sol/ micro set or something similar.
I never had time for shields and decals before, but they are worth the effort.

I spray the shields with a base coat when I prime the minis. I take a piece of 2" wide bass wood, about 10"long, and put two strips of double-sided tape onto it. Then I stick the shields to the tape, face down, and spray the inside with a rust-brown primer. When it dries, I flip the shields over and spray them with a white prime. After that, I add the transfer (almost always an LBMS transfer) and paint any edge trim, shield boss, etc, that needs to be done.

After the mini is painted, I add the shield and pike/spear and it's all done.

Thanks for all the help and I will definitely be taking some of the advice given.

Build the figure, then paint it. If you cannot see a bit of the figure, then it does not need painting.

For domed shield, trick is to print the varnish holding the transfer so it can follow the shape of the shield. I have done that with quite a few of the Veni Vidi Vici transfers.

I always attach shields before priming the figure. The paint weakens the bond between the shield and the figure making the shield more likely to break off the model. And all those areas awkwardly covered by the shield don't need to be painted beyond a hasty coat of brown.

While this is true, I still paint shields separate of the figures. I solve the weakness issues by covering the mounting peg/hole with latex rubber, and then remove & glue the shield as the very last step. The latex prevents the paint from covering the joint, and allows me to do the two separately.

Damon.