"Joint Compound" Topic

Anyone use this for basing?

I've cut out a For Sale sign and gooped some of the joint compound onto the sheet and placed some woodland scenic tress on it. Going to let it dry, paint it, flock/grass tuft it.

Whats the best way to seal this?

Also, I feel like I did this wrong. Thinking I shouldn't have put in the trees and drilled holes into it after it's dried, painted and flocked.

Tips?

Thanks

Joint compound? How's that work on arthritic knees and ankles? Might have to pick up a coupla gallons.

Hahaha

Sheet rock joint compound

I use Durham's Water putty instead. It is easier to control the consistency and sometimes it is better thick, sometimes thin.

Joint compound will crack if it is too thick.
It is great for covering and texturing foam hills and walls.
Fills gaps well too.

Mix earth color paint into the compound before you apply it. This way when it cracks you don't see white.
And water putty is way better.

Along this line, I'm curious how the new-ish plastic wood filler works. Per the description, it doesn't shrink or crack. It is also very light weight.

I tried Join Compound as well.

The results were not at all pleasing.
I would avoid it, unless you want a cracking effect.
It is difficult to work with, dries very slowly, and can react poorly with additives.

Good thing I only tried it once last night. I'll try wood filler as I hear it doesn't crack. That Durham's seems like a nice alternative too.

Thanks all

I've used wood filler and found that it did crack and shrink when it dried.

Yikes….doesn't leave me much options. Guess I'll try that Durham's next.

The old wood filler did shrink and crack. I'm talking about the newer stuff that's apparently plastic… or so the container says.

You could also try making your own Modeling Paste -- search YouTube for videos. It is a mixture of inexpensive ingredients: Talcum Powder, White Paint (can substitute any color acrylic paint, as desired), and PVA/White Glue. I've used this extensively on terrain pieces. Works quite well, dries fairly hard, takes paint very well, and it is really inexpensive, and easy to mix up, and use. Cheers!

PVA, plaster, paint and bit of grit.

Durhams doesn't shrink, is easy to work with, dries incredibly hard, and is lightweight.

wood filler cracks and shrinks. if your going to go with a type of joint compound go with durabond. it has different drying times, but is way shorter and more durable then joint compound. it is less sandable though. it cracks a lot less. the reason you will see cracking is playing with it too much and making it too thick. with durabond you can do multiple layers quickly. be sure to clean you tools. this stuff dries extremely solid and is not very water washable once it dries.

I've had some good results with Stucco Patch.

For bases, I generally use Liquitex Modeling Paste or texture gel. These dry hard and can be mixed with acrylic paint to be whatever color I want. I can usually paint over these after 1-2 hours. The texture gel will crack slightly if put on too thick but as it is all one color this is usually not a problem, and if I don't like it I can fill with a thin coat over the top. (I think the texture gel is now called Resin Sand effects medium.)

For large surfaces like game boards I have mixed my own texture paint: 1 part white glue, 1 part water, 1 part sand, 1 part craft paint. Dries to a rough texture like sandpaper.

I've used Durhams Water Putty a few times and the descriptions above are accurate, but I have not experimented with coloring it.