"Artist foam board" Topic

Does this stuff make a decent base for multiple trees. I wanted to get some material board but it's 10x the price of artist foam board but not sure how the foam board holds up against paint and pva glue

Am I better off using mat board for this?

Foam board will warp if PVA'd and it is also subject to movement during temperature shifts.

I was afraid of that. Anything else that would make for a larger base that can handle pva glue and paint and that isn't exspensive?

I'd go with thin, styrene sheeting instead.

Very durable, so you're unlikely to bend/damage the edges, even when abusing them, and you can get "For Sale" and other signs pretty cheap. Sometimes even the Dollar Stores have them for sale.

Thank you both

If you paint it both sides, then thin plywood or MDF from the local Big Box hardware is a possibility. They usually sell 'hobby' sheets in the 2' x 3' range (at ridiculous markups) for those who can't handle an 8' x 4' sheet. You can cut thin MDF with a lino/carpet knife in a couple of passes or use a coping saw or jig saw.

I agree with what bsrlee says. Sometimes craft shops sell pre cut mdf for making your own coasters or placemats. It is important to paint both sides first before you add glue and flock or you run the risk of warping.

Dollar Stores sell clip boards made of I think pressed wood. They are easily cut into shapes and used for all manner of large bases.

I use 1/8" hardboard which you can get in "hobby panels" (2x4' sheets) from lumber section of home stores. I don't care about the markup from cutting down 4x8' sheet; price per panel is not too much and you can make a large number of bases from one panel.

I cut with jigsaw – you can get inexpensive jigsaw for ~$30, very versatile investment. (If you have access to scroll saw or band saw, that is even better.) And I have a 4-surface wood rasp (both rough and heavy file in both flat and curved surfaces on one tool) that is great for beveling this material or any of the woods suggested by others above.

You can cut hardboard with craft knife but need to make multiple passes. Kind of tedious. If you do it this way, cut from bottom, get halfway through then snap it; the uncut portion will tear and you can manipulate the snap so the tear bevels your base.

Paint or seal both sides to control warping. It's good easily up to about 6x9". I've done as big as 9x12" and 12x14", but it takes a little more work to manage the warping. For bigger sizes I'd recommend thicker hardboard, 1/4". I've made full hobby panel game boards from this (2x4'). It stays rigid in that size but can warp slightly from its own weight if you aren't careful how you store it. You definitely want a power saw to cut 1/4" though.

Just be aware that cutting any man-made board poses risks. Ideally cut outside and wear a mask capable of filtering out small particles. I have used hardboard to make small woods, very successful. Made them 30 plus years ago and still using them.

Thanks for the suggestions. Hardboard/MDF isn't an option for me as I don't have the tools to cut it and it's just too much work.

Then sheet styrene would be my suggestion. Easy to cut and work with just hobby knife and sanding block (if you need to bevel it).

Will a sand/pva glue combo work on styrene?

Yes, but you must sand the styrene so it has a rough texture for the glue to stick to. On one project I did have the paint lift up from the edges of some terrain. I think it was because insufficient sanding.

Styrene is the same material model airplane kits are made from and also GW movement trays. GW slotta bases are different material but with almost the same characteristics. I put flock or sand on these all the time with PVA glue, but rarely directly. I usually prime and undercoat first. I sand to shape or texture the surface but never to prep. I do sometimes first scrub with dish soapy water and rinse.