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"Open-top moulds: viable?" Topic


8 Posts

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Comments or corrections?

Norman D Landings11 Aug 2016 1:43 p.m. PST

Or am I just being lazy?

I've done Prince August metal homecasting for years, and I'm thinking of having a dabble in RTV mould making.

Here's the proposition; if your sculpt is flat-bottomed, do you need a two-half mould?
Can you make a one piece mould, and just… fill it to the brim?

I'm thinking of sci-fi grav vehicles – flat, or at least featureless bottoms, smooth shapes for easy extraction, basic hulls only, so different turrets and whatnot can be stuck on at leisure.

Will I get a surface-tension meniscus like the curvature of the earth?
And if so, can I 'skim' it with the edge of a steel rule, or whatnot?

Advice & suggestions welcome!

Mako1111 Aug 2016 2:12 p.m. PST

It's doable.

You'll just have to sand them down to get them flat, along the edges.

No need for a two-part mold.

IUsedToBeSomeone11 Aug 2016 2:33 p.m. PST

All my martian empires vehicles are done this way and sanded flat

Mike

The Beast Rampant11 Aug 2016 2:39 p.m. PST

It's pretty obvious from looking at them that a lot of resin vehicles, ships, etc are cast that way.

elsyrsyn11 Aug 2016 3:42 p.m. PST

All my Hirst Arts molds are open topped, but of course I'm casting with dental plaster, not metal. I imagine different materials will have a differing degree of meniscus, maybe depending on the viscosity and the time to set.

Doug

bsrlee11 Aug 2016 9:44 p.m. PST

Casting metal gives you the meniscus problem which varies according to the metal mix, some give more others less. It can be pretty easy to just clamp a sheet of aluminium or other hard to solder metal to the open side. Resin gives a thin meniscus going up the side of the mold which is easy to remove.

Norman D Landings12 Aug 2016 5:59 a.m. PST

I suspected as much, but thought: "I bet there's a catch."

Thanks, gents!

Mugwump12 Aug 2016 6:13 a.m. PST

If it's resin just lay a piece of glass on top with a thin coat of petroleum jelly for mold release.

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