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"Modern Solo Wargame Rules Suggestions " Topic


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Mooseworks825 Jul 2016 12:16 p.m. PST

I am shopping for modern rules for solo play. I want units to behave in their intended role. I want to use 3 or 6mm miniatures on a 3x3 battlefield.

kallman25 Jul 2016 1:18 p.m. PST

Well not sure about solo play but for me Ambush Alley is perhaps one of the best modern set of rules. With 6mm and a 3x3 board what level of command are you trying to accomplish? That would help with suggesting rule systems. You might want to give Cold War Commander a look.

Mako1125 Jul 2016 3:13 p.m. PST

Checking various things out.

Right now, WRG's 1950 – 1985, which is free, appears to be in the lead.

Simple enough, with some decent modifiers for vehicle and infantry status to make them interesting, and, did I mention they're available for free?b

Weasel25 Jul 2016 3:40 p.m. PST

I'll throw in that if you put together a basic plan for each side, many games become solo friendly.

You don't mention how many gits you want on the table, but Spearhead might be worth checking into.

Once you have your plans, there's not a ton of decision making to do.
The modern version requires the ww2 core rules to play (if I remember right). Not sure what the availability is right now.

Just Jack Supporting Member of TMP25 Jul 2016 6:04 p.m. PST

AJ,

I've been tearing it up for several years now in solo play with various iterations of 5Core, mostly 5Core Company Command and now 5 Men at Kursk. The first is good to get between five and ten units (single vehicles, guns, or squads) per side on the table, the latter is skirmish (though I believe Ivan has taken its activation to Company Command now as well). There's even 5Core Brigade Command, where each stand is a company.

I've played a boatload of games in 6mm and 10mm, on 2' x 2', 3' x 3', and 4' x 4' boards, including the entire liberation of Cuba, which was inspired by your 6mm Republic of Prussia campaign.

In any case, you can take a look at my blog to take a look at over 100 batreps using 5Core, the vast majority of them solo games.

V/R,
Jack

Mooseworks825 Jul 2016 7:12 p.m. PST

Thanks Jack. I just bought FiveCore Brigade Commander and downloaded the primer for Fistful of Tows 3.

Personal logo Saber6 Supporting Member of TMP Fezian25 Jul 2016 8:59 p.m. PST

5 Core Brigade Commander is a good set of fast battles

UshCha26 Jul 2016 4:14 a.m. PST

You could look at us Maneouver Group

link

We are not a solo designed game. However it may lend itself to Solo gaming. Its design and operation is such that without the hassle of the WRG mapping system the movement and command and control system does demand a plan. Without it a player can rapidly bog down and get badly disordered. This seems to me to be ideal for solo gaming (although I only did this while testing very specific scenarios to check the rules). This means that you can deploy the defenders, Write your orders(in your head) for the attackers and start play. If you do not plan it will bite you. Having the bridge layer in the wrong place could be hell.

Normally we play using 1:144 models at 1mm+1m ground scale. On your small board you could play 1mm =2mm with 6mm. The issue is that its 1:1 for vehicles so you do need to note where each turret is pointing. Ok we have done it with 6mm models but its a bit fiddly. However as a solo gamer time is on your side. It is IGOUGO but the limitations carfully built in will stop abuse of the system as a solo player.

You would need decent terrain not like the semi sterile type used in games with points systems. M/Grp does not have a points sytem for that reason.

It definitely would not work for 3mm. That scale is more of a boardgame style and M/Grp is not designed for that.

Just Jack Supporting Member of TMP26 Jul 2016 11:08 a.m. PST

AJ – Excellent, I can't wait to see how you get on ether Brigade Commander. And thanks for the mention in your blogpost; like I said, your 6mm Republic of Prussia was a big inspiration for me… Even wish someone *ahem* would get back to it ;)

Uscha – and 3mm is for board games??? You're killing me!

V/R,
Jack

UshCha27 Jul 2016 1:44 a.m. PST

Just Jack, at 3 mm you cannot move platoons down representative streets. The bases do not represent the area covered, say 800m for a company of tanks in position with alternative fighting positions (appox. 50m between alternative positions and original). A platoon will cover about 250m deployed for defence). Ergo its a board game with miniatures. Nothing wrong with that but its not my thing.

Just Jack Supporting Member of TMP27 Jul 2016 5:05 a.m. PST

Uscha,

This reminds me of the thread where you told the guy 6mm terrain can't look realistic, then he posted mind blowing pics of his 6mm table…

Courtesy of the "Tinpot Revolutionary" blog, 3mm:

picture

picture

picture

I've been inspired.

V/R,
Jack

Weasel27 Jul 2016 10:15 a.m. PST

3mm is seriously fantastic, though it does take a little adjusting to.

They can work as "half-size" 6mm or they can work for big unit-bases.


Thanks for buying Brigade Commander, let me know how you get on.
There will be an updated version in the fall, so expect some tweaks coming along.

UshCha227 Jul 2016 11:14 a.m. PST

Just Jack,
Hate to rain on your parade. Its not about pretty, its about realistic. The lovely picture of the village is just wrong for most European villages. The roads are typically 2 tanks wide. The main road near me is not much more than that. Putting tanks on bases makes it much worse. When we played at 6mm no tanks were on bases. Even then getting you tanks to move inside the village is difficult. spacing the houses out does not work as then the sight lines are then stupidly too wide and infantry then suffer when they should not.

Nothing wrong with the scenery artistically but you are applying board game levels of abstraction as its pretty, but not realistic in any way. We find with the ground out by a factor of 5 with the ground scale you can get the right number of roads and hedges/ditches woods etc. You can get most of the roads in a urban area but the gardens have to go as the houses are too big. Google maps is your friend on these things. With 3mm you would need tweezers to move through houses spaced at the correct distance at model scale.

Again neither one of us is wrong its about what you actually want to represent and fight over.

Just Jack Supporting Member of TMP27 Jul 2016 1:58 p.m. PST

REDONE BECAUSE OF A BUNCH OF SPELLING ERRORS

Uscha,

"Hate to rain on your parade."
It's quite alright, though I still think you are incorrect. 3mm is no more subject to, or limited by, ground scale than any other scale. That's like saying "28mm, that's too big! You can only play chess with pieces that big!"

"Its not about pretty, its about realistic."
First, we're wargamers, so it's probably at least a little bit about pretty, at least insofar as we want our tables to look like a piece of ground that was actually fought over. If you threw out a red mat for a game I'd say that might work for Mars, but probably not Normandy. But I posted those pics because they look like scenes out of actual WWII photographs, or something you might see out your car window while driving. So realistic was what I was going for there.

Second, it doesn't look at all like a board game to me, nor does it look like I'd be abstracting anything if I were so fortunate as to be able to play on that table.

"The lovely picture of the village is just wrong for most European villages."
Perhaps he wasn't showing most villages, perhaps he was showing *that* village? I don't understand why you speak in such absolutes. And why does it seem so implausible to you that he couldn't just add more buildings to make a larger village?

"The roads are typically 2 tanks wide."
Again with the absolutes. I bet if we were in Europe circa 1944 we could find a rural road or two that was less than two tanks wide. Matter of fact, I bet we could find some areas marked as roads on maps that were nothing more than cart tracks, or animal paths. Believe it or not, such things still exist in many places. I was on one just t'other day, right here in the United States!

And do you honestly believe he couldn't just make the road a bit wider if he wanted to?

"Putting tanks on bases makes it much worse. When we played at 6mm no tanks were on bases. Even then getting you tanks to move inside the village is difficult. spacing the houses out does not work as then the sight lines are then stupidly too wide and infantry then suffer when they should not."
Hmmm, lot of issues here, the easiest being, don't base your vehicles. Or put them on smaller bases. I'd have to adjust the basing and the houses to see if LOS is actually an issue, or if the spacing between houses was something I couldn't live with.

I suppose before we go too much further we should discuss the echelon the game is being fought at; if we're running a company or larger per side I would argue that we're getting too far in the weeds. That's just my opinion, but Company Commanders generally aren't worried about the ten foot gap between individual houses, in my experience.

Another option is, don't move tanks off roads in urban areas, which is what is done in real life. The tankers I served with didn't like being trapped in a town on a four lane road, much less trying to squeeze between individual houses. Most tankers don't like the idea of someone they can't see, on the roof or an upper story, dropping something down on them. And don't talk to me about infantry support, I was the infantry support; to properly clear a block of houses takes a platoon all day, and I'm assuming since we have tank support we've got something more pressing on our minds, meaning were moving up the street (providing 360 degree security) without clearing everything. Whether the tank or the grunts lead depends on what's happening, but that tank wants as much empty space around it as possible.

"Nothing wrong with the scenery artistically but you are applying board game levels of abstraction as its pretty, but not realistic in any way."
To me that statement is beyond insane. Are you playing a squad-sized skirmish game? I mean, it sounds like you're interested in the individual placement of trees and bushes. I will admit that I wouldn't play skirmish games in 3mm, but I'm sure some do, and I've done it in 10mm and had some folks tell me it was a dumb idea while some said it was a great idea.

"We find with the ground out by a factor of 5 with the ground scale you can get the right number of roads and hedges/ditches woods etc."
Okay.

"You can get most of the roads in a urban area but the gardens have to go as the houses are too big."
What??!! Are you saying it's possible to procure realistically scaled houses and buildings in other scales, but not 3mm? That is demonstrably false.

"Google maps is your friend on these things."
??? If you're talking about determining realistic distances between houses, or widths of roads, so is looking at photos from the relevant era, or even going outside and taking a look around.

"With 3mm you would need tweezers to move through houses spaced at the correct distance at model scale."
So? Are you saying it can't be done? Or shouldn't be done? I don't get it. If you're saying it's too much a pain in the ass for you to do okay, but you're not everyone. It can be done, and I'm sure someone, somewhere is doing it. Wargamers do weird/difficult/crazy stuff all the time.

But that's my point: you constantly speak in absolutes about what is proper, and you're wrong.

"Again neither one of us is wrong its about what you actually want to represent and fight over."
Well, if you're saying you can't play a tabletop wargame with realistic (1:1) groundscale in 3mm, you are wrong. I would argue the smaller the scale, the easier it becomes to have realistic ground scale.

I regularly play games in 10mm, and I was curious about 1:1 ground scale, so I measured my 8 foot table to work out how far it was in 'real life.' I don't recall off the top of my head, but it was ridiculous, something like 350 or 450 yards.

Well, there goes the idea of having company-sized tank action, we're already at point blank range! Throw out armor and penetration, this is a melee! And throw out arty, air support, phased attacks, defense in depth, reserves, hell, even mortars and machine guns!

V/R,
Jack

UshCha228 Jul 2016 9:28 a.m. PST

Just Jack, I seem in some way to have offended you, this was not my intention and so apologize unreservedly.

UshCha228 Jul 2016 9:58 a.m. PST

Just Jack, I seem in some way to have offended you, this was not my intention and so apologize unreservedly.

Abstraction is always an issue in Wargameing. Time scales for actions is also an issue. An infantry company taking a modest village could take a day (or more even with tank support). So do you speed up the infantry action, or reduce the complexity of an urban area to allow it to be cleared by a company quickly.

Real world terrain tends in my experience tends to have far more terrain than on typical wargames table. This has a massive impact on a game. If you do not get this terrain representative ( NOT NECCESSARILY 1:1) the game may be accurate for that terrain but may as well be WWII on Mars.

I believe that generals work about 2 levels down so gaps less than 10 ft in a village would give him great concern as his platoons and even individual tanks would be very hard pressed. He may not bother with individual gaps but the fact that there were few such gaps would give him pause for thought.

If you think D Day landings made only about a mile inland in a day and many battles conform to roughly a mile per hour, getting the terrain right in some way is key. I am not sure how this is done at 3mm scale simply and quickly ,in terms of moving models etc.

In the end it is personal preference. I hold strong views but it is the right of all individuals to accept or reject those views without rancor on either side.

Just Jack Supporting Member of TMP29 Jul 2016 6:55 a.m. PST

Uscha,

No problem, and I apologize as well as my tone certainly got more harsh than I intended. I suppose I have a soft spot for absolutes, and telling folks what they're doing isn't this or that.

I simply meant to counter your points, in an amicable and respectful way, in order that you may see, in this example, that you could actually play a game in 3mm in a relatively realistic fashion.

V/R,
Jack

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