"scenic cement surface tension problem" Topic

For ages, I've struggled with various types of scenic cement (I mean that white glue or matte medium mixed with water variety) some purchased, some home made and the perennial issue of surface tension. When you try to get it to absorb into the flock or sand and it just bubbles or pools up. I've wondered especially on flock if there was some chemical agent that might release the tension and allow it to absorb easier. I've tried to get the bases of my minis or terrain a bit damp first but this can be tricky.

Why not just add a few drops of surface tension breaker to it?

I'm not familiar with that I guess?

Interesting, just googled and found something called this on Amazon, guess it's why this forum is so helpful. When in doubt ask stupid questions!

Add a couple of drops of liquid dish detergent. That will help break the tension, and it is inexpensive.

Jim

At a craft store you can look for something called "Flow Aid." The brand I use is by Liquitex. It works to break the surface tension of the water, so this is exactly what you need.

You could also put a couple of drops of dish washing liquid in your mix. That should do the trick as well.

Agreed, liquid detergent. Personally I use a clear liquid floor / bathroom cleaner because it is thinner than washing up liquid and tends to be less foamy. Put some in a small bottle and use a pipette / eye dropper for control – you only need a drop.

If you are going to the washing section of the supermarket, what you probably want is 'rinse aid', usually in a small bottle it is intended to be added to dishwashers to stop spotting on the plates when they dry in the machine. It is of a watery consistency compared to detergent. The Hirst Art/Castlemolds site has an article on it under the title 'wetter water'.

Agree with washing up liquid – that's most of it's effect with washing up, it makes the water 'wetter'.

Gas drops for infants will work. It is specifically formulated to reduce surface tension.
auction

You can also borrow a technique model railroaders use for ballasting track and "wet" the sand first with rubbing alcohol (eye dropper) then add scenic cement. Soaks right in.

My time for a possibly stupid question. Are you spreading out sand/flock and then trying to drip glue on it? I think the standard beginning of a base is to paint on diluted glue (or paint) and quickly sprinkle the texture on top or just dip the mini in a box of it and later shake off the excess.

But the "wet" water will be needed for additional treatments.

And do visit model railroad and static plastic model sites. A realistic looking railroad, a diorama of any sort, the sleekest of military or racing hardware – all can offer at least a little bit to the minis encyclopedia of your mind.

I use a little spray bottle -- the kind that sprays a fine mist, not a heavier stream -- the one I use was formerly a sample size hairspray bottle. Fill with water and add two drops of liquid dish soap. You soak the area you are working on -- the mist is so fine that it doesn't rearrange your work. Once wet, use a pipette with diluted white glue or your scenic cement and drip onto the area. The white glue should immediately spread out into a large circle. If it doesn't, spray the area with the "wet" water.

This is all good discussion. I am flocking miniature bases, so spraying from overhead is not ideal in this case. I'm leaning to some form of detergent, etc. I hear people in the UK refer to "washing up liquid", is there another term for this that could be in the American vernacular? I do first use heavy matte medium gel on the base after miniatures are glued down, but find that if I apply sand and then sprinkle off excess, there is not enough remaining on base and edge of miniatures base is visible and I need to blend these into "ground level".

For miniatures bases, I have always just thinned white glue 50/50 with water. I did start using wet water a number of years ago. I use the formula from Woodland Scenics for wet water: 1-2 drops dish soap per cup. Except I use dishwasher rinse aid.

Just use an old brush to spread it around, push it into any crevices, sprinkle flock, let dry. Ground foam, scale rocks (ballast), static grass -- I attach it all basically this same way. I have messed around applying a top sealing layer using an eye dropper (or overloaded paint brush that is drippy) but I never feel I have any control and sometimes damage the flocking. I am much happier using spray sealer: applying 1-2 layers spray gloss varnish then a top layer of matte varnish.

I've occasionally used yellow carpenter's glue or matte media or tacky craft glue or scenic cement. I just mix to similar consistency as above.

For terrain bases I do same way but use bigger applicator brush. For large terrain surfaces (game boards, hills), I thin the glue less to keep it more sticky, and apply with 1-2" brush or 4" roller.

For static grass I do use the Noch puffer bottles to apply, and they are more convenient (point and puff puff puff) but I got good results back when I just rubbed a clump between thumb and fingers so it sprinkles down.

Wealdmaster: … people in the UK refer to "washing up liquid", is there another term for this that could be in the American vernacular?

Always wondered about that myself.

From Cambridge online dictionary: link

British
"washing-up liquid" in British English

washing-up liquid
noun
a thick liquid detergent, added to hot water when washing pans, knives and forks, etc.

So it's what we call liquid dish soap in the US.

Funny I always thought the "washing up" referred to people's hands not dishes. Shows me not to make assumptions!